Thursday, September 30, 2010

Oswego Creek


all photos: Matt King


About 5 years ago I was attending an event with my family in Portland. I was still an Ik'er but the bridge we drove over was intriguing even then. I guess it was a precursor of things to come, but I just HAD to find out what was in that creek. I didn't have the map skills at the time to figure out what creek it was, so I just took a mental image and stayed up that night imagining what was flowing along under that bridge.
Then earlier this summer I am driving through Portland and drive over and recognized that bridge.  I pulled over hopped out to take a look.  My hopes were low, but it looked like there was some bedrock down there, not what I was expecting.  Anyway, I drove around some more and saw some wood, but the first drop looked worth the effort to me, so I did some research and found out my mystery creek was Oswego creek. I tried to find when they did releases, but this project fell on the wayside as more promising creeks emerged.

This last weekend, driving back from Bend I returned to the Willamette Valley with a message from Matt King.  He was standing next to a creek flowing through downtown Portland and it was running, he said it had a 20' tall, 30' long slide and said we should run it!

I called back and he informed me he came across the creek after riding his bike to pick up a ladder, how some things happen.
The drive home from Bend was brutal and I almost fell asleep a few times, I even think I had a dream or two.   However, the thought of getting to finally run this creek kept me going and motivated to make it to Portland that night where Nate, Matt and I awaited the mornings events. I was up as soon as I heard footsteps in the hall.
We skipped breakfast and loaded up. We were in high spirits and showed up at the put in bridge to see... other kayakers!  Word had gotten out that Lake Oswego was being drained for maintenance to the dam.

After we were informed of the protocol for the day (don't be on river right due to landowner issues), we went to the put in and did some scouting before dropping what was a pretty fun slide right there in downtown Portland.

Nate and I, round two.

Matt and Nate dropped down Blue angel style, Matt's paddle got caught in some rocks and he almost went over, but kept it upright and retrieved his paddle. We then all hiked up for round two as the LOPD showed up with an unhappy landlady.


"I am, not a crook"



We foresaw an obnoxious argument with landowners who were uninformed about Oregon's navigability laws about to take place.  This was a possibility Matt, Nate and I had anticipated and didn't much want to be a part of.   We paddled off downstream and into the Willamette, across the river, then hiked up a road through Matt's neighborhood to his house.  The other group stuck around to talk to the bystanders, but the police officer was informed, and after some discussion allowed the other group to continue paddling for awhile.




Downstream on Oswego Creek

Upon arrival Matt's girlfriend Caitlin had a big breakfast made up for us, ending a unique morning in quality fashion.  Matt and Nate had more in mind so headed off for the Truss, and I drove back down to school.

Put in:  outlet for Lake Oswego    45.4101, -122.6675
Take out:  George Roger's Park.   45.4105, -122.6608
Total length:   1/2 mile.



This creek only runs once every three years when the lake is lowered for residence to fix boat docks and more rarely for the city to clean sewage pipes beneath the lake surface. 



All smiles after Oswego Creek dawn patrol.

All photos: Matt King


-Jacob

Deschutes River: Benham to Bend
















BETA





Stream: The Deschutes River upstream of Bend has some great whitewater at a time of year when the rest of the Pacific Northwest is drying up.  As the Summer gets into full swing, water is needed for agricultural purposes, so water is released from Wickiup Reservoir into the Upper Deschutes.  This bumps flows up to around 2,000 cfs and turns what is already a nice run into something even better.  The only downside to this run is the flatwater, between each section of whitewater lies quite a bit of it.

The uppermost rapid is called Benham, it is also the hardest rapid on the run.  Because it is at the top, and because it is challenging and hazardous, it does not get run very often.  However, putting in at the base of Benham gives paddlers half a mile of fun III+ whitewater before easing off to flatwater for the next 2 1/4 miles to the next whitewater at Dillon Falls.  Because of this flatwater, if paddlers are not interested in Benham, putting in at Dillon Falls is a more common option.


Scotty Baker and Matt King taking a Dynamic Duo through Benham Falls.  
As I heard it, they didn't want to do a practice roll before hand, as they wanted to have some beginners luck in their back pocket.

Dynamic Duo Benham Falls from baker scott on Vimeo.



At Summer flows, Dillon Falls is one of the best rapids in Oregon.  If you put in here, you can either walk down from your cars to scout the rapid along a trail on river-left, or paddle down to an eddy on the left just before things turn from class II to spicy (obvious horizon line).  The standard line in the summer is to enter down a ramp on the left, then boof off one of three humps.  There is another option to run down the far right, though it is more challenging.  There is an exploding wave-hole over there that is noteworthy just above the lip.  The center of the falls is to be avoided at Summer Flows,  as it creates a powerful U-shaped hydraulic.

Dillon Falls
[IMAGE]

Regardless of how the falls is run, the next obstacle (the Dill-hole) comes up quick.  The Dill-hole has a good seam on the left to shoot for, the center is liable to give you a surf.   Downstream are a couple eddies on the left that heads up boaters can catch, before entering Dillon Canyon, a 300 yard long rapid reminiscent of the NF Payette.  The crux is the first move, where the cleanest line starts left (to avoid a flippy diagonal on the right), threading over to the right on the back of the flippy wave to avoid another flippy hydraulic on the left. 

 Dillon Gorge
[IMAGE]

 Below the crux, the line is typically down the right into an eddy on the corner, there is also a big boof in the center of the river if you want to spice things up.  Coming out of the eddy on the right, ferry back to the far left to avoid a sticky hole on the center-right.  Below this hole is some splashy water into a long pool.  Better than memorizing these moves or trying to figure it out in person, is to follow someone down who knows the deal.  The old internet/GoPro scout goes a long way on this river too.


Between the rapids, you can expect your fair share of this.  Note that the smiles from Dillon Falls are still there.

Photo: Sam Drevo of Enrg Kayaking


After 1 1/4 miles of flat water Big Eddy is reached, a fun III-III+ rapid that last for half a mile.  There are some fun eddies to grab, and some hydraulics to hit.  Locals sometimes do laps on just this rapid to build skill sets and as an after work option as it's easy to walk back up via a trail on the left.

A group paddles fast down Big Eddy the day after the Meadowcamp Race.
 Photo: Sam Drevo of Enrg Kayaking


A half mile of moving flat water separates Big Eddy from Lava Islnd, which can be scouted on the right.  Lava Island is actually a section of whitewater on it's own, with three rapids and some splashy stuff.  The first rapid is Lava 1.  Lava 1 starts with some twisting/boiling stuff that can be run right or left, followed by a bottle neck with holes on the side before splitting into two channels.  The right side is a sloping ramp into a hydraulic that can be passed by right or (more commonly) left.

Priscilla passes by on the left
Photo: Sam Drevo of Enrg Kayaking
  

The left channel consists of a ramp, followed by a sticky ledge hole that can be boofed over, or passed on the left.  The two channels quickly reconvene, and there is a nice eddy to regroup in on the right.  Downstream is Cut-up, a great class IV rapid that can be read and run, Iv'e typically started center-left.  Some splashy water and a pool lead to Lava 2, which involves a classic big-water left to right move.  The typical line starts left, then as soon as a large diagonal is passed turn on the burners and drive right to avoid a large hole on the left (has been boofed over succussfully, but can also swim you).  There is a large boulder on the right many boaters use as a marker, getting as close to that as possible before going over a ledge adjacent to the large hole center-right.  Upon landing the current will move you back to the center of the river, this is desirable as there is some debris on the bottom right.  A class III+ run out leads to another pool.

The hardest whitewater is over at this point, but the most sustained section is still to come.  After 1.5 miles of flat water small rapids start poking up, passing by River Rim Park (a put in option for the class IV Meadowcamp Run) a sign warns of hazardous rapids downstream.  Within a couple hundred yards the class IV starts in earnest, and sustained whitewater continues for 1.5 miles.  Paddlers coming down from Dillon and Lava shouldn't have trouble reading and running if they don't have someone to follow (it's not hard to find someone to follow, the locals run this stretch nearly every day in the Summer).  If in doubt about the line, the right portion of the main current is typically a good place to be throughout this entire section. The stand out rapid is Dammit, which starts with a 4' ledge into a pillowy ramp.  At the end of the ramp a pipe shoots water into the river, the trick is to get as close to it as you can and boof to the right over a diagonal to avoid being swept left into a rock.  Nearing the end of the run the river splits into three channels, all channels can be run, but far right is the cleanest.

The easiest to find take out is the Farewell Bend Park adjacent to the Reed Market St Bridge half a mile below the last rapid.



Flows:  This section is at it's prime in the Summer, at 2,000 cfs give or take a couple hundred.  It can be run down to around 1,000 though the lines change (for example the left line at Dillon closes out, while the center opens up).  Winter runs typically skip Meadowcamp, as a diversion pulls most of the water out that time of year.  The gauge is found here.

Access:  The easiest to find take out is the Farewell Bend Park, adjacent to the Reed Market St Bridge (44.0408, -121.329).

Locals know of another spot a bit further up, but parking there is limited.

To get to the upper river from there, cross the Reed Market Bridge to river-left, pass straight through the first round-a-bout.  At the second round about head South/"left" onto Century Drive. 

**In 3.2 miles you will pass by a turn off to Meadowcamp Picnic area, the Winter time take out. **

4.9 miles past the round-a-bout, turn left at a brown sign indicating the road goes to the Deschutes R. Recreation Sites.  After making this turn, you will turn left off this road to your put in of choice, all put ins are signed.

Lava Island: 0.4 miles

Big Eddy: 1.7 miles

Dillon Falls:  2.6 miles

Benham Falls:  4.0 miles

Each of these put in areas request that you purchase a day use pass, the fine for not purchasing the pass is the same as the cost of the pass itself, but you will need to mail it in.



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Original Write-up
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My first trip out to run the Upper Deschutes was in the Winter during a low water year.  The flow was 1200 cfs which was fun for Dillon and the Lava's, and ok for Meadowcamp aside from a rapid called Amazing that we portaged due to low water.  We had a good time.

Of note was Jeff and Dan running Dillon on verbal beta, due to waning daylight.  This was a result of running Benham in the morning, then Lava through town next, before heading back up to run Dillon.

Nate Merrill running Dillon on another low water trip.

A paddler gutting into Dill-hole at Winter flows, this ended in a beat down and subsequent swim.  The boat pinned in a tough to reach spot on the left and with the short amount of time we had left in the day, chose to leave it there overnight.


Jeff Compton and Dan Mccain rafting Lava 1 at 1200 cfs.



Anna Herring, approaching the crux of Dammit, the crux rapid of the Meadowcamp run.
100%, the final rapid on Meadowcamp, at low water.
Capping off the Triple Crown; Jeff and Dan crashing through Benham.





   -jacob






Tuesday, September 14, 2010

End of guiding season

Recently finished up guiding season. It was a fun one with lots of trips, thanks Pete!
Now its September and I am trying to figure out what to do with myself until school starts. With no water and everyone gone, Iv'e been scoping out some exploratory stuff, as well as planning for potentially the largest mission Iv'e ever been on. We will see if that one happens.
In the mean time, Iv'e found some good stuff to boat, so check back here once the rain starts as I hope to start knocking some of them off the list.

Some shots from guiding season.
Janus the wonder custy from a martian planet.
(all photos courtesy of Adam Smith from Blue Sky Rafting)
The double jump at the narrows (with cool headcam footage from Janus)

Texas Longhorns! They don't look like they are from Houston to me

Rock and Roll!

(all photos Courtesy of Adam Smith of Blue Sky Rafting)
-Jacob

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Secret Stash

Photos: Nick Hymel



Nick, Alex and I took a trip into the hills looking for a low water adventure. Armed with wetsuits and tubes, we set out to explore the ""secret stash". Discovered by an older generation of boaters, they kept this slice of whitewater in obscurity. One can only imagine why, maybe they wanted to have somewhere to go only they knew of, maybe they wanted to make sure the access stayed open, I like to think they left it so others could explore it and figure it out for themselves. It was a bit of a drive from Gresham, luckily the gates were all open and we drove straight to the take out bridge. This is what we found:




15 foot ramp to 30 foot free-fall was my estimate after looking from base and lip.





Tubing in the crux section, upstream of the falls.




Alex, between a rock and a soft place.





The entrance falls into the crux section. A possible line exists right where Alex is, not very confident it actually goes though.




Portaging not feasible on river-left, maybe on the right?
all photos by Nick Hymel.


Alex finished the day with a solid showing on the tube. Running every tube-able drop plus some...
-Jacob

Thursday, August 19, 2010

annual Lewis River Trip

I try to get on the Lewis at least once every summer. It is one of my favorite runs in one of my favorite places. The drops are all large enough to be exciting, and there are just the right amount of large drops in exactly the right order. We started off this trip by driving up to Twin Falls. We carried boats accross the Lewis then up the hillside to reach this waterfall.  We looked at the falls from the lip. I took note of how the falls didn't create a boil and looked like I would expect a shallow falls to look. I wrote it off as myself misreading the water, since I had run this falls a few times before. I headed up to my boat excited to be starting the day with this sweet 20-25 footer. I hit my line perfect and launched out headed for a flat landing. Sometimes I get ansy in the air, so I decided to throw the bow down a bit for style. It worked, but left my back upright, which is usually not a problem for me when I throw the bow, since that motion takes away the impact. This time however, I connected with a rock 2 feet under the surface right under my seat. It definitely hurt and it took me a second to collect and make sure I hadn't injured myself. I then paddled back into the falls to check the landing. I shoved my paddle down in two spots, one was right where I had landed in "the boil", the other was farther stream right where I thought it would be deep. My paddle hit very quickly on both accounts and I waved off Nate and Chris.  We hiked down and got ready for the rest of the run. I was amazed at the change in the landing zone from the last few times I had run this falls. I had even intenionally plugged it once before and only lightly touched bottom. The pool has obviously filled in significantly and is no longer safe to run.
20+ feet till touchdown
We drove down to the trailhead near Quartz Creek with high spirits. I was unsure about how my back would deal with the impacts of the next few falls, but was willing to give it a go. We skipped the trail scout and took a look at Taitnapum from the lip. It was good to go. Nate and Chris fired the center (watch out for the rock lurking behind the vail, just waiting to catch your tail), while I went left. I was able to get forward at the very end, but still felt a bit of impact.
Chris fires up his tallest falls to date with a great line.
At this point I ruled out Upper Lewis Falls. We ran the next couple of drops, with only one violent piton to speak of (just keep your nose up when it looks like you should). We then scouted the first tier of Upper Falls, a unique entry into an 8 foot boof. Nate went first, and then Chris's boat went. I heard Chris yell "where's my boat", then "*&^%". I hopped in my boat to help Nate with the chase, seal launched into the drop and hopped out, only to see Chris's boat disappear over the nasty apacolypse drop on Upper Lewis. Nate clipped into a rope I was holding, and recovered the paddle. I then roped Chris across and we headed down to where a bunch of hikers informed us the boat had gone over both the twenty foot first tier, and the lower 35 footer. Chris took off running down the trail while Nate started getting psyched for the big drop on Upper Lewis. We roped him down, and there he was, all alone and commited to a pretty big drop. He looked stoked to be there though and I looked down with envy, remembering how cool it was to be in that spot. He got in his boat, slid backwards into the micro-eddy, then pealed out and dropped 35 ft down a slick ramp. He was really excited in the pool below.
Nate accelerates down the face of the lowest tier in Upper Falls
I saw his line and was pretty sure I could run it with minimal impact to my back, I also really wanted to be in that spot right above the drop again. So I doubled up the rope, and lowered myself down there. I followed Nate's line, dropping over this falls for the third time so far, having a totally soft and upright line. I was really glad I had run it. We reunited with Chris (who retrieved his boat minus the front wall and with a new dent in the front) and headed downstream. Shortly thereafter Chris was located with said front wall and we were back in business. The next section involved us getting out of our boats a couple times to walk across the wide bedrock channels in order to avoid abuse on our boats. One slot in here is very small, but goes. Shortly downstream was Middle falls, which we ran multiple times, and butslid as well. One of my favorite drops, especially with water, because it is large and super easy. Next was the low water fun down to Lower falls, this went by in about 20 minutes, then we were at the grand finale for those who so chose. After much deliberation, Nate stepped up to the plate. We set up some solid safety, then watched as Nate tried out a new line. At low water, there is a flake in the center of the falls that attracts a fair amount of the flow. Most people are concerned they will hit it, Nate decided he wanted to hit it. He hoped it would lift his bow just enough to kick him away from the cave on river left. We sent three logs over. The first pitoned hard on the flake, then fell over the handle bars into the pool below. The second did exactly what we hoped Nate's kayak would do. The third had three minutes of downtime... Nate decided to give it a go and set up for the run with a multitude of onlookers. He came off just as planned with the perfect amount of speed, dropped his bow and hoped the flake would do as planned...

Nate fires the biggen'
It kicked him hard right (away from the cave), he adjusted in midair and hit the pool in control. He rolled quickly against the right wall and floated out through the most exhilerated 50 yards of flatwater I have ever paddled, and I am sure he was feeling the same. Chris and I jumped off the right side into the pool to congratulate him. Then we hiked up and out, totally stoked on the day. Not many people run the Lewis as a run, mostly just for park and hucks, but it is one of my favorite runs in one of my favorite places. I highly recomend that anyone capable and willing to do a bit of dealing take the opportunity to experience this place from a boat. "Lewis river above muddy river" should be below 500 for the Lower tier of Upper falls to be maneagable (because of put in shelf), and lower falls to be sane. we had 350. -Jacob

Sunday, August 1, 2010

100 Streams

I'm trying to have run 100 streams. They are all streams I have done in a boat designed for whitewater. I am just posting to keep track of it and to motivate myself. These are not sections of rivers, these are different streams (ie. the farmlands, truss, middle, lower, and lower lower sections of the White Salmon all count as one for my count [white salmon])Probably going to be really boring to read all these to yourself, so pass on that and I'll try to get a real post up soon.

  • Sandy
  • Bull Run
  • Gordon Creek
  • l***** s****
  • Salmon
  • Zigzag
  • Still
  • Beaver
  • Clackamas
  • NF Clack
  • Roaring
  • Hot Springs fork
  • collowash
  • blister
  • eagle
  • rock (clack trib)
  • nf deep
  • fish
  • washougal
  • nf washougal
  • hagen
  • wildboy
  • dougan
  • canyon
  • rock(columbia trib)
  • ef lewis
  • copper
  • king
  • rock (ef lewis trib)
  • yacolt
  • Lewis
  • canyon
  • quartz
  • twin falls
  • canyon
  • ohanepecosh
  • nf cispus
  • yellowjacket
  • tieton
  • white salmon
  • trout lake
  • dog
  • little white salmon
  • summit
  • Hood
  • ef hood
  • wf hood
  • Eagle Creek (columbia trib)
  • deschutes
  • white
  • ---------50-------
  • north santiam
  • breitenbush
  • little north santiam
  • gold
  • Henline
  • South Santiam
  • Canyon Creek (s. santiam trib)
  • Quartzville 
  • Elk Creek (Quartzville trib)
  • butte
  • abiqua
  • little abiqua
  • silver
  • rogue
  • illinois
  • sf coquille
  • drowned out
  • nf mf willamette
  • molalla
  • table rock fork molalla
  • sweet

  • salmon (id)
  • snake
  • Owyhee
  • john day -------75----
  • grand ronde
  • Little Luckiamute
  • luckiamute
  • rickreall
  • yaquina
  • slick rock
  • Little Rock(near corvallis)
  • hunter
  • Willamina
  • wind
  • trout
  • panther
  • sunshine
  • johnson
  • wilson
  • jordan
  • devils lake fork
  • Wildhorse
  • milk creek
  • canyon(milk trib)
  • Grays
  • Thompson
  • Deep
-------98--------
unless I forgot some, then...
TWO MORE TO GO!!

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Thirty years between swims; as told by Stephen Cameron

I swam last week on the Ohanepecosh. “Big deal,” you may be thinking. Everybody swims sometimes, especially if they're running hard stuff. But this was significant, it's been about thirty years since I'd surrendered to the river gods, pulled and ejected. Besides, it was me. O.K., the whole truth. I did actually swim about ten years ago in the surf when a wave walloped me with a direct hit. That doesn't count, does it? After all, it wasn't on a river. And...well...there was that time in 1991... Sure I swam, but my skirt blew that time too. I can't be faulted for that, no, I certainly can't. “I wuz framed...” 1991. That was, as Andy Corra put it, a gruesome day. We were driving from Seattle to run Tumwater. There was an inch of slush on the road and just before the pass, a car, driving way too fast, roared by. A minute later, we came across the head-on collision. A crowd, doing absolutely nothing, was gathering. Then someone uttered those dreaded words, “Stephen, you're a medical student, you can help.” Yes I was, but barely. I was an early third year, just out of my two years of classroom study; my field experience was minimal. Nothing to do but plunge in, all eyes upon me. The passenger, a woman, was alive. But screaming so hysterically I couldn't even get her to unlock her door. No wonder, I suppose – the driver, her boyfriend I think – looked rather life-less. So we hauled him out and into the slush, unclear if CPR would help (by the way, in major trauma, it doesn't). I hesitated, hoping he wasn't HIV+, before placing my lips on his bloody pale lips (front teeth knocked out by the steering wheel) and doing a couple of rescue breaths, then compressions. I must say the chest compressions worked splendidly, circulating blood through the body just like we'd been told it would. How did I know? With each compression, blood squirted out of his ears. A basilar skull fracture. Game over. After that little horror show, no one felt much like paddling. Plus, it was cold, gray and drizzly. A hot chocolate sort of day. But – you know how it goes – we'd already done most of the drive, we'd always wanted to do Tumwater, we were a solid group of paddlers, things would work out, etc., etc. Then we got to one of the last big drops, which I thought was boat scout-able even though everyone else thought not and were up on the bank. Anyway, it was the usual sad, sad story; I dropped into a hole, got worked, then sort of fell out of my submerged boat. Popped skirt. Swim – not fun. Mortality Awareness Day, we called it. * * * 2010, the Ohanepecosh. A very fun weekend with Ryan Cole, Dan Dellwo, Nate Pfeiffer, Chris Arnold, Jenna Watson, Scott Brigdam and Roman Androsov. A great group. The run on Saturday was going well, except for Nate losing his headcam early on. Then Ryan got cocky and decided to attempt a freewheel off a six foot drop. Attempt being the operative word. The landing was – shall we say – wonky, and he dislocated his shoulder in the curtain. Luckily for him, he'd dislocated it a couple times before; it was nice and limber and basically went back in by itself. Right after that we came to Elbow Room, which we decided to portage farther upstream than usual. It was steep, the thin route cutting sharply up to the left above an underhung cliff. Roman led, with me a few feet behind him, just to his right. Suddenly, his boat peels off his shoulder. As it careened away, I pressed myself hard against the cliff as to not get knocked off. I was relieved when the boat hit bottom, but then heard someone yell, “Roman, he fell! Roman fell!” Jesus Christ! I only saw the boat fall. That was a twenty foot vertical fall onto rocks! I down-climbed as fast as possible, expecting a real nightmare, a mangled mess. But he was standing up, looking clear-eyed, moving all extremities, unhurt. He could remember his name, converse, everything. It was un-friggin' believable. How was that possible? He'd slipped, the boat had jolted and pulled him backwards off the slope. Backwards! Twenty feet! Somehow, God knows how, he did something close to a full flip and was cushioned by the boat, or...or...we don't really know. Neither does he. But – I'm serious here – none of us had ever seen such a miraculous close call. I asked if he'd re-create it, but he politely declined. And then we're down to Petrified, the last major rapid. Ryan and Chris and Dan nail it, it didn't look too bad. Trouble was, I didn't really see the line in my minds' eye, a little part of me thinking, “It's not bad, it'll work out fine, it usually does, I'm good enough to wing it, if they can breeze through so can I...” Anyways...more sadness. I get pushed too far right and drop, with history's most feeble boof, into the meat of the big top hole. Forty worthless seconds spent trying to claw out exhaust me, and I call it and pull. I flounder under the froth for another twenty seconds (I swear it was sixty), then flush down through the next two ledge holes. One brilliant little side-line: My foam-core Werner remained in the hole, terminally recirculating. Chris, on the left side, immediately “saw” the solution, tied a stick to his throw rope and threw it upstream of the paddle. Just as it plunged into the hole and underneath the paddle, he masterfully lassoed that little doggy like a professional rangler and reeled it in on the first try. Then next day, Nick from Seattle makes the same mistake I did, at the same hole, but windowshades, dislocating his shoulder for real. Sitting on a rock shelf, we put it back in fairly quickly. There was a kind of luck again, because there happened to be a raft right there that took him down to the take-out. What have I learned? Make sure you see the line. Don't fall off cliffs. Don't drive too fast in snow. Don't kiss dead strangers. And the last thing? Swimming Sucks! ~Stephen