Thursday, August 22, 2013

Trouble at the Alter

The Little White Salmon River, with it's legendary status and easy logistics holds a special form of respect in the PNW.  Many paddlers aspire to one day travel this special waterway.  The crown jewell of this run, Spirit Falls may hold even more allure than the run itself.   Some paddlers run the Little White many times before finally finding themselves in the pool below this falls.  With a number of pro paddlers moving to Hood River specifically to run this river (for which most probably don't even have the word portage cross there minds on this river at normal flows) and the saturation of media from the canyon there has been a loss of mystique regarding this stream for kayakers.

With the recent resurgence of the rafting community however, this river and waterfall have become a true proving ground for the best in the business.  Only a few years ago I witnessed more than once, and heard many more accounts from kayakers telling Dan it was a terrible idea to take a raft down this river.  He took no heed and today has logged over 50 successful runs down this stream.  There are many other rafters who also run this stream now, with many having logged in the double digits.

However, Spirit has posed a problem for rafts in the past. With a handful of descents, only one attempt was successful.  Most resulted in lots of pain, followed by some downtime.  Dave Saquety and Doc Loomis reported taking the hit of a lifetime on the earliest attempt of this drop.  This low success rate keeps many rafters away, but also creates a draw for the daring to attempt following the few that went before them into one of the most special pools in the PNW for whitewater boaters.

Josh Sheldon is one such boater who wanted his own Spiritual experience on the Little White.   The following account is from Brandon Bloomquist, who was on the trip where Josh took the risks involved with reaching the sacred pool.  Not all went to plan, take what you will from this account.

  -jacob

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Sunday was a fantastic day on the Little White, at least once things got organized.  Nice weather made the three hours we were waiting for the final member of our party to show up more bearable.  We finally got on the stream a little after 1:00.  Jacob, Brandon Lake and I put on a little earlier than the raft and we all had nice lines through Gettin’ Busy.  There was a quick scout of Boulder Sluice, and I followed the green tongue in front of me to a porn star finish. 

Brandon ran Island, with a degree of success.  He made it halfway down when he pitoned the nose, which spun him into a tail piton.  He rolled quickly and we kept moving downstream.  Sacriledge and Double Drop were awesome.  I walked S-Turn and had a creative line over wishbone where I didn’t get square to the drop until I was 5’ from the lip.  It wasn’t good, but it worked out.  After watching the raft get hung up sideways on every rock and hole in the gorge, I was happy to see them catch the eddy on right below Horseshoe, which cleared us to follow into the gorge through which I was happy to have a stylish run.   I haven’t run the right side of Stovepipe before, but, wow, that’s a cool rapid. 

We got to Spirit at 4:00 with the sun shining.  We knew the rafters were going to take their time to consider the drop, so we broke out a lunch of smoked oysters, salami, cheese, crackers and snickers right at the lip.  We wave to the gathered crowd of about eight who hiked in from milepost 2, including Paul Thompson, Josh’s Mom and the Manimal, Trevor Sheehan.  

I turned to Jacob at one point and said “this feels civilized.”  I gave Spirit a lot of thought, but decided that I can’t afford an injury right now and told the boys I’d be at Chaos for them.  I was able to lower my boat into the Chaos eddy, where I delicately got in, then ran the ledge to the left of Chaos straight into the proper eddy. 

By this point in the day, I was feeling like the river was actively helping me be a better boater. 
When I got into position, I was surprised to see Jacob standing on the rock on river right in the pool (The Alter as some have called it).  He’d already styled the big drop thinking I was positioned at Chaos.  We were glad it worked out well, because I was a few minutes late.  Jacob practiced his throws, both into the boil and into the current past him.  I uncoiled my ropes a little in my defensive position slightly below Chaos and we wait. 

Jacob approaches the pool.



At 4:51, Brandon signals from the lip that the rafters are paddling.  Dan was on the right, Josh on the left.  They look good coming over at the lip.  One second and twenty-five later, the over-rotation was obvious.  They hit, the boat just went deep, then rebounded straight up with the paddlers still in.  Their weight pulls the boat down on top of them.  Dan and the raft are kicked out to the eddy on the right.  Josh goes deep in the boil and surfaces behind the curtain.  We don’t know it yet, but he didn’t square up his feet on the front thwart at the landing, and severely rolled his ankle (crutches for two weeks). 

Even seemingly good lines don't always work out.


As a recap, we have Brandon at the top, John the Grizzly on the left, Jacob on The Alter and me at Chaos with Josh’s Mom freaking out at the viewing area.  

The folks up top can see Josh moving around behind the curtain, but I can’t.  All I know is that they aren’t panicking, so I’m just staying put.  In any case, I can’t leave my station in case one of them comes around the corner.  Brandon tries to throw his rope gamely over the lip, but because of the undercut, it wasn’t going to work.  John tries to throw through the column of water from the right, but is rejected.  Jacob gets in his boat to paddle over to Dan, and they get the boat flipped over.  Jake gets back in his kayak and paddles over to river left, just below the left side of the falls.  There is an eddy there, where he gets out, then throws a rope to Dan and pulls him across.  It is already 5:15.  Jake has Brandon come to above him to lower a line with the intent of pulling them up the convergence zone and then into the undercut area.  They clip the line onto the raft, have Brandon walk back upstream on the cliff and start paddling, but the rope gets snagged in two places on the cliff.  I’m the only one who can see both halves of what’s happening.

At 5:30, they give up on this approach and move to simply paddling upstream directly.  Dan decides to first pump up the thwart and adjust it back to paddling position.  15 minutes later they make their first attempt and only get to the nub that sticks out on the right, and Dan is getting pounded by the waterfall landing on him.  They are within ten feet of the point where the current flows into the wall, but just can’t do it.  Over the next fifteen minutes, they try four more times and are rejected each time. 

I can’t see it from my post, but John managed to get a rope to Josh behind the veil.  He attempts to pull him up, but can’t.  Josh can’t climb, either, with a bum foot and an overhung wall.  He eventually cuts himself off the rope, landing on the bad foot, making things worse.  He’s getting cold, too, with the constant mist.  It’s been almost an hour.  Jacob switches boats and paddles his kayak through the veil, only to realize there is a secondary room and he cannot contact Josh from this lower room.  He paddles back out through the veil and down to Dan to further discuss. 

At 5:45, Jacob gets back into his boat, to the massive disdain of Dan.  For the first time, I can hear him through the roar.  Jake comes back to the river right eddy to study the situation, then gets in the current to catch the left eddy above Chaos.  He misses, but knows it and turns to face the challenge directly.  I’m relieved to see him simply style it and carry on to get out at the left, where we normally put in after the portage.  He runs up to where Brandon is, where they confer.  They pass a single line down to Dan again, but I know this won’t work.  I frantically motion to Jake and Brandon to clip the lines together.  They do, and start walking.  I blow a short whistle to stop them.  I get Jake to stay put, holding tension on the line, while Brandon walks around the curve of the falls to where we had lunch.  This keeps the line from snagging on the left wall. 

It’s 6:00 by the time that Jake walks to meet Brandon at the top, then with Dan in the raft.  The boys at the top start pulling, with Dan simply highsiding to keep the boat upright .  They are able to pull the raft straight in to meet Josh.  I can’t see this for a long time, as there was mist from both sides of the falls jetting across my view.  Eventually I see a second piece of red clothing, and from the positions infer that it has to be Josh.  Then things get weird, and I see Dan break out the K-pump.  It turns out that they’d deflated the raft a little for the drop in an effort to make it taco on landing, but it is just confusing from my post.  I’m starting to dance to stay warm, and I haven’t been getting blasted by mist. 

Finally, at 6:15, with the left falls pouring on them, I see the raft emerge with two paddlers.  We all cheer, but they are just ten seconds from Chaos.  Dan knows it, and is shouting at Josh, but Josh is so cold that he can’t paddle well.  I see the look of a shelled soldier on his face.  The boat keeps turning to the right with Dan’s power.  They drooooop over the main drop at Chaos.  Josh falls out of the boat, right into the main pourover and loses his paddle.  I’m ready to hit him with a rope, but he grabs the chicken line.  He stays there for a few seconds, yelling at Dan that he can’t get back in.  The fear reaches through the air.  Dan hesitates, as he’s keeping the raft from flipping in Chaos, but pulls Josh back into the boat.  After a few more rounds while Josh retrieves another paddle, they are able to carry on downstream.  I watch the paddle make rounds in the hole for another two minutes before it finally spits out.  When I get back to my boat, it was waiting for me in that eddy. 

We run Master Blaster blind and catch up with the raft below the hatchery.  We drink beers on the float to the take out, where we carry Josh up the hill to the road and analyze how we can deal with situations like this more efficiently in the future.  
--
Brandon Bloomquist





Monday, August 19, 2013

Whitewater Creek: The low hanging fruit

With a name like Whitewater Creek, easy access off a major HWY, spring flows and no beta we should have known it would be a suffer fest.

I was planning to paddle the creek on my own so that the suffering was applied to the fewest people possible.  In the end I decided to invite Willy Dinsdale as he had mentioned wanting to check out this creek before.

Willy and his brother Ben met me after work and we drove on up towards Detroit.

The result was pretty predictable.

It started out on a steep tributary with very little water, like a luge course just wide enough for a boat, dropping 250' in half a mile or so. Eventually we decided it was more convenient to leave the track and walk our boats through the woods to a confluence. From this point on the wood increased substantially and there was enough push now to make it hazardous. The Dinsdales are capable boaters, and appear to lack fear.  Following them down this stream was about as uncomfortable as I had ever been on a creek up to this point. We knew light was going to be an issue and these guys took that to heart.  I was following them under and over logs, ducking only to turn a blind corner and do it all again.  There were probably a dozen corners I would have scouted if these guys hadn't just kept cruising around them.  After watching how well they worked together, I became quit confident if things went wrong they would be able to take care of whatever situation came up.

This proved true when they both boofed a sketchy looking log and I followed.  I was following too close so when one of them got hung up I needed to slow and back paddle (push against the gravel) in order not to run into him, as I had passed by the last eddy.  Once he cleared the log I didn't quite get back up to speed as I approached the manuever.   Boofing the first log, I landed on the second log as a third log became dislodged and I slid back into the gap between the two original logs.  I leaned into the downstream log and within a few seconds the front half of my boat was shoved under the log, and while my head was well above water I was pretty well stuck and couldn't see over the large log I was wedged against.   Before any plan to escape had come to mind Ben had ahold of the tail of my boat and yanked me out of there.  By the end of the day we had all gone through something similar to that.

I was continually impressed by these guys as they would paddle straight at log jams, yanking their skirt just before contact and leaping onto the jam before turning and pulling the other guy out, shortening the length of each portage.  I generally took out a few yards upstream of these situations, and resigned myself to the extra portage distances.

At one point Ben got pinned and swam, his boat lodged itself under a log.  It was in there pretty good and completely submerged, being that it was nearly dark, I was looking around for the easiest way up to the road to bail out of there.  After 30 seconds or so I looked over and the brothers were jumping up and down on the boat in the middle of the creek/logjam.  I decided I clearly had a thing or two to learn from these guys, as I wouldn't have considered what they were doing as an option worth pursuing.  And sure enough, 15 minutes later the boat was out and we were back on our way.  The catch was by this point the sun had set and we were no longer able to see well.  After what felt to me like some sketchy log maneuvers in the dark they bought into my plan of hiking along the bank for a bit, but it was slow going and Willy had a busted foot, so after a few minutes he decided to get back in and continue on in his boat.  Ben hiked with me for awhile longer, but it was starting to become futile, on one 30 yard section literally took us 5 minutes.  A couple times I would get my boat stuck in a tree and couldn't figure out how to get it unstuck (because I couldn't see it).  In the darkest parts with the most tree coverage, I was unable to see my hand in front of my face.

Ben made a case for putting back on, at least out there we would get some refracted light on occasion.  I didn't like the idea, but agreed that hiking wasn't turning out to be fruitful.  So we put back on and in two separate occasions I crashed into an unseen log at chest level.  Both times I was able to work myself free without flipping over, butI was clearly working with credit on the luck front.  Eventually I was just no longer willing to risk the river and though Ben was more interested in floating into the logs rather than walking into them, he was willing to hit the bank one last time.  Turns out we were pretty close at this point and within ten minutes we reached the bridge!

Ben and Willy headed off to get the shuttle vehicle and I waited with the gear.  Making a fort with two boats and Ben's drysuit, I was able to fall asleep a couple times but was getting pretty uncomfortable by the time the brothers returned.  The put in road had been so small Willy had walked right by it on the way up!

By the time we got back to the main HWY it was 11:30pm.


So now Iv'e got some fond memories to reflect upon each time I cross Whitewater Creek while taking Hwy 22 to Bend.


   -Jacob

Thursday, August 8, 2013

West Forkin' in the Wallowas


Wallowa Lake
Many people have seen the grandeur of Wallowa Lake; it's proud moraines and towering peaks.  People come from all over to swim in the clear alpine waters coming out of the heart of the Wallowa Mountain range, to take the tram up to Anaroid Peak and peer across Hells Canyon into the vast Idaho Wilderness, and to enjoy the bucolic countryside of Wallowa County.

So far as I'm concerned, that's stuff's cool and all, but it ain't the main event. There lies a hidden gem at the head of the lake that has been overlooked by tourists and locals alike.  The West Fork of the Wallowa has a trail that begins along a boxed in granite gorge that you can't avoid if you're on the trail.  As it nears the lake, it takes a turn to the West and drops over a hidden waterfall, with no good view points unless you're standing right over it.  It's hidden enough that the vast majority of  folks that I've talked to that have been up the trail have no idea there's a 40 foot series of drops right before the creek flattens out and hits the lake.  Amazing what people miss right under their nose!



When you do find it and you stand over it, what you see is a beautiful piece of whitewater, technical, big, and consequential.  The drop consists of a 5 foot ledge into a 8 foot ledge, kinda like double drop on the truss, but smoother and smaller, and the second drop slams into a giant boil, turns 70 degrees to the left, splits into two flows, the careens off a 25 footer that's sloping on the left with a reconnect and spouting on the right out of a bath-tub slot.  Add a deep cave on the left and a nasty pocket on the right and you've got yourself a nice little stout, one we lovingly call "Boy Scout Falls"  for the boy scout camp just downstream. 


I've stood above the falls and stared into the canyon dozens of times, at all manner of flows, and only a few times have I decided to go back to the car, gear up and go for it.  When it's too high,  the boil off the wall consumes the whole flow and the pocket and cave combo at the bottom looks marginally survivable at best.  When it's too low, the top ledges get chunky, the reconnect looks painful on the left, and the bath tub line would do an aweful number on your elbows and/or face.  That leaves a limited flow window that's fortunately pretty reliable before and after Lostine season, so we always get the chance to run it in early spring and mid-summer.

Connor Ross and I mustered up the gusto to go for it this summer, after all our other local runs had last their water to the long hot days of summer. With a great support crew, sunny weather, and high spirits, we went up there and had a good time of it, with some extra excitement thrown in for good measure.  More on that later.

But now, Con and Matt's guide on how to run boy scout-   you start the trip with a 5 minute walk then lowering your boat down a steep cliff into the canyon (if you don't run the gorge, which is unfortunately full of wood at the moment (on my winter to-do list)).

Once you get down to water level, you boat about 50 yards of mank then catch the scouting eddy at the lip.




Once you get to the eddy, hop out, take one last scout from river level, and feel your heart beat faster.  You didn't realize how big it is until now.  And that turn of the second ledge looks like anything could happen.  And although you can hike out from here, it's difficult, and you've already got your buddies set up for safety and media, so you might as well give it a go.



You hop in your boat and splash some water on your face.  The fear melts away and all that's left is commitment and pure presence  (Jacob once told me "you know you're running something really hard when you aren't scared anymore," so true).  You peel out of the eddy, ride the ramp in the first ledge, whiteout, boof the second, whiteout, line it up, stroke at the lip, land, and WAHOO!  You've made it to the bottom! 

Matt King First Ledge


Lining it up.  Note the thin line between the fuck you rock on the left and the bathtub.
  

Loving the late stroke!


Connor Ross First Ledge

 
Connor Boil Bashin'

Lining it up, bathtub just off his right blade

Coming off the lip, looking good.

Now, as you might notice in the photos, this line is pretty thin.  You don't want to go into the bathtub (at least nobody has tried that line yet), and being out of control/upside-down would likely result in a hospital visit if you bounced off the reconnect on the left.  Not to mention getting through the top two ledges.  This particular day illustrated the thin-ness of the line; Connor came off the lip looking good, but ended up a little bow-right on landing.  He subbed out (which pretty much always happens on this drop), and came up in the water from the spout on the right (underwater).  He felt his skirt implode and was able to come up upright.  Much to our dismay, he was in the nasty pocket on the right, and had to swim.  He was able to get stable on a shelf, and we started to work out the extraction.  

Connor stable on the ledge.

First we got a bag to him from river right, and we got his kayak and paddle roped out of there.

Safety spot/rope throwing ledge.
Boat Recovery.
Once we got his gear out, he decided to free climb a portion of the wall to a vantage point, from there he would either continue up, or jump into the main flow and thus avoid a scenic undercut swimming tour from trying to rope him out of the pocket.


Once he got to this ledge, he paused to take in a new view of the falls (the second new view since nobody has seen it from river level on the right) while we set up a belay for the second, and much steeper and exposed pitch.  We used a hodgepodge of gear to get him on belay, and he climbed out without issue.  All in all, it was a pretty textbook rescue, and actually kinda fun.  Even Connor enjoyed it (although he was bummed that we didn't have time to do another lap)!

The La Grande Branch of the Into the Outside Crew

All in all, another great day on the river, big thanks to Aaron and Damiana Maxwell and Silje Christoffersen for their support and safety and media.  We wouldn't have done it without you! And thanks to Kathie Baird for remembering a couple hours later at Terminal Gravity that Connor needed to do a booty beer, which he dutifully drank, the first ever in the TG grotto!

The dogs decided to not R2 it this particular day.  Maybe next time!


A trailer style video showing some of the classic whitewater in the Wallowa's



Friday, August 2, 2013

Press Play

I finally took the the time to throw together some footage from the last few months. Despite the title, a lot of the this film was shot during my stint in fun-employment land. However, since I've re-donned the shirt and slacks, I've been feeling more and more like a weekend warrior. Although I don't have as much time to spend out in the woods, I have to admit that I'm as motivated as ever to get after it once Saturday and Sunday roll around. We've managed to bag a lot of great stuff this Spring/Summer and here are some of the highlights.

Location: Various
Boaters: Friends

Enjoy
-Nate M.

Thursday, July 25, 2013

North Fork Lewis River (Summertime Waterfalls)


Paul Thomson photograph





BETA
 3 miles





Stream: Many people in the Pacific Northwest learn how to fall off waterfalls on the East Fork Lewis River, but what many don't realize is that the main stem (or North Fork as some refer to it) is a fantastic place to take those waterfall skills up a notch in the summertime.  The falls require just the right amount of adventure, and tend to be more forgiving in the summer than drops of similar height in the PNW.





**The following description is for flows in the 200-500 cfs range, as the flows go up, this turns into a much more serious run and this description will not hold true at those flows. **





Walking a short distance on the trail at Quartz Creek will lead to a convenient rock beach that is only a couple hundred yards above Taitnapum, the first waterfall.  Taitnapum can be scouted beforehand from the trail, but we generally choose to scout from the lip on river right.  I have seen two lines run here, one is the center where the most water is, the other is a few feet off the left wall.  Both of these lines go, though each have their pros and cons.


Matt King, left line.

Next is a small slide run wherever (I like the ledge on the right), then a narrow channel chiseled out of the wide bedrock before we get out on the left to scout the right channel lead in to Upper Falls by drying out to the left of the channel.  This drop is straight forward, but its not always run according to plan.  Its worth having the probe set safety below this drop as a swim would result in a high probability of gear (and possibly a swimmer) going over the nastiest part of Upper Falls.  Once everyone groups below this drop we run the next ledge far right, catching one of two small eddies to portage the ugly (but has been run) part of Upper Falls.


To run what is my favorite drop of the run, the lower tier of Upper Falls, we have always roped down to a small pothole ten yards above the lip.  The key here is to seal launch slowly backwards into a small eddy in order to set up for a controlled peal out into the main flow.  The middle line offers a big boof, or you can tuck it up down the left side for a softer hit.

Joe Kemper setting up in the pothole.


 Paul Guinea dropping the soft side.

There is some shallow stuff down to Middle Falls, I sometimes get out of my boat and walk through the right side of the river once I get tired of gorilla boating, it's like a sidewalk over there.

The horizon line of Middle Falls can't be missed.  The right side is a silly fun slide.  We usually slide it on our buts a few times and even hauled a boogie board down the run once for this purpose.  There are some lines to try out in the middle of the river, and some class V lines on river left.


Keeping it simple, sliding down the right side.
If you flip in the innocuous 2' ledge right below middle falls, don't be too embarrassed, you are not the first.

The next mile is rocky class 2.  Below the remnants of an old bridge, the river starts showing bedrock again.  Soon enough you will see wooden stairs on the right which signal Lower Falls.  Safety can and should be set at Lower Falls (a 75' bag reaches from river right), enough people have ended up behind the falls to warrant this.  If you find yourself back there, it is worth noting there is a ledge at the back of the cave people have stood on in the past.

 Nate Merrill



The take out trail for people running Lower Falls is below the pool on the right, or continue to the bridge.




Another video from Andrew Bradley


  
Flows:  Flows: I have run this section from 200-500 cfs on the Lewis above Muddy River Gauge.  If it gets much higher the pot-hole at Upper Falls that we rope into becomes covered. 200 is pretty low, I like 300-400 best.

Access:  Put in:  Walk down the trail from the parking area next to Quartz Creek (46.1824, -121.8497) until you see an easily accessible gravel bar on the main stem of the Lewis.

Take Out:  Hike out on a trail just below Lower Falls (46.1561, -121.8801) on the right, or continue to the bridge a short distance downstream.




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Story
Rafting the waterfalls of the North Fork Lewis
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Most people who boat with me for any length of time figure out that regardless of a runs quality, I have an enigmatic resistance to repeating runs I have already done.  One of the few exceptions to this rule is the falls section of the Lewis River.  I try to do this run once every year, and have enjoyed it immensely every time. It is a great combo of adventure, with predictable flows and what can be low stress trips full of fun, large drops.




Taitnapum during Spring runoff.





For my birthday after graduating high school, my family, girlfriend and I camped at the Lower falls campground.  It had been over a year since I was here last.  That time I had shyed away from the lower falls after seeing Rush Sturges get stuck in the cave, and I broke my nose running Upper falls.

Rush, over the lip and through the veil he goes.



 This year, my goal was to run Lower falls if I was feeling ready.  On Friday I ran the upper section with my stepdad Dave, and I had run a challenging waterfall up on that section.



  Sunday rolled around and it was time to run the falls section.  Jean Loosmore and John showed up along with Tim Brink and ORT, who were going to make a go at rafting the waterfalls.  Paul Guinea rode up with ORT.  Jean realized pretty quickly he had forgotten his PFD so he opted to video the show.  After scouting, we all put on and ran Taitnapum, a 20 footer that produced some interesting lines.
Paul went first and cleaned up.  I went next and was planning on a plug, but hit a pad on the way down and dropped at a 45 until I hit the rock face forming the fall which dropped my bow and I came up facing the falls but upright. I got out and watched from a neat angle the raft running it, from my perch they dropped off the falls pointed right at me, and where close enough that when they hit,I was splashed by the sheet of water they created.
 Last was John, some miscommunication caused him to be offline and he got turned sideways and ended up dislocating his thumb :(  It wasn't a great place to get out of the river, so John sucked it down through a couple more class IVs until we got to where the trail met back up with the river at Upper Lewis Falls.
Jean's girlfriend was starting to get sick, Jean couldn't boat without his life jacket and John had the dislocated thumb so it was an easy call for that group to head back home at this point.

 We bid farewell and got all the boats down into the pothole at the lip of the lower 35' tier of Upper Falls.  Getting into the eddy in a controlled manner is the most crucial part of this drop as I learned last year when I got blown out before I could set up properly. Last year Nick and I had gone off the middle of the falls, hitting the autoboof.  This year I wanted to try for what looked like a softer hit on the left.  Ox helped lower me backwards into the eddy out of the raft and I got a controlled ferry into the river left side of this drop which was a nice bounce, bounce, plug into the pool below.



  The raft was next, and being bigger than the eddy found the ferry out of it a little tricky.  They ended up going off the completely vertical right side of the falls.  Tim had the foresight to bring football helmets for both of them on this trip, for which they were grateful when they clashed noggins at the bottom of the drop.  Three upright lines and we hightailed it to Middle Falls, I went for the easy slide down the right, while Paul tried one of the tricky lines on the left side of the drop, again coming out upright.
 The raft had already taken off by the time I finished talking to my sister, mom, and Aubrey.  Paul and I played catch up for the next half mile.  We finally rounded a corner and got out above the biggest drop of the day, Lower Falls.  Paul and I headed down to scout while Tim and Ox started lining their boat down to below the lead in rapid, which was too narrow for the raft.  I have not looked at a drop as long as I did that one and still decided to run it.  It would be the tallest drop I had run yet, and I wanted to run it perfect or not at all.  As I was getting closer to feeling ready we looked up to see Tim and Ox loose control of the raft, as we watched helplessly it plummeted over the edge, unmanned.

of not being able to run the falls (the effort already spent this day plus what it would take to get it back to the top meant they would not be running the falls today.

Tim and Ox had been planning on running the drop, and of all the waterfalls on the run this had been the one they were most looking forward to.   Tim and Ox took off to corral the boat downstream, while Paul and I returned to scouting the drop.  After a large chunk of time I decided to go.  As I floated down into the lead in I saw Paul waving the camera, signaling that he couldn't get it to work.

I quickly decided I was already focused and the media wasn't important enough to stop and try again.
As I came through the lead in my focused narrowed and I got what I would described as tunnel vision with my periphrial vision going black but the path in front of me in hyper resolution, something that has not ever happened again for me again.  I locked my sight on the first 5' drop, with the 40' horizon just beyond.  I planted a stroke off the top ledge to keep my bow up but but not so much of one that I would plane out, as the two drops were so close together.  I felt in control and right where I wanted to be.  I shifted the boat slightly to the right, took a strong right stroke off the lip, then a left follow through part way down, it was at this point I remembered I wanted to tuck, so took one last right stroke as I folded over the front of my boat.  With all those strokes, I must have landed at less than a 45 degree angle because I didn't sub out.  It was a hit, but I was tucked up well so any pain quickly faded.  One more stroke in the alley below and I was sailing past the side veils and into the calm pool downstream.

I was feeling great, I had done something challenging and accomplished a goal that had been important to me.   Because Paul had run upstream to tell me about the camera, the rafters were chasing down their boat, and my family and girlfriend were still running down the trail, only one random hiker had seen the descent from afar.  It was a moment I had to myself, and so I chose to soak in it for awhile in the pool below.

When I had finished reflecting I headed down to the rafters who had arrested the runaway raft, and helped them schlep it up the trail.  They would return the next weekend for a their turn at the falls.
By this time Paul had finished scouting the drop, and took his turn with a beautiful line in a beautiful place.


I couldn't have asked for a better birthday weekend.

    -Jacob





Thursday, July 18, 2013

Tanner Creek; Above Wahclella Gorge



                                                                               Beta



Stream:   After hiking about 4 miles you reach the powerlines and the put in.  It starts off steep and bouldery, keep an eye out for wood but don't be surprised if there are no portages either.  It's pretty narrow and fast so there might be a couple places you want to scout up here, most of it is boat scoutable though.

The first bedrock appears in the form of a small class II slide, eddy out immediately on the left after the slide to scout Volition Falls.  This is a unique drop, shaped like a quarter pipe before dropping 5' more into a hole.  It looks like an abrupt transition but two of us ran it in an IK and it was smooth, it's yet to be tested by a hardshell though.



Next are some more boulder gardens before Coppertone, the largest non-waterfall rapid on the run.  A big wall on the left marks this fun rapid.


The next small rapid is best run in the shallow channel on the left.  Below here keep a look out for a horizon line that is a long slide as the river bends left, historically it has ended in a dangerous logjam and should be portaged left.  It's not too hard to stop above this, if you are paying attention.

Next up is Caesura Falls, a low stress ten foot boof in the middle or a narrow chute on the right.  If it were easier to lap I'd spend some time here.

 (Paul Thomson photo)

Just around the corner is Sundance Falls, a 40 foot falls with a variety of lines that can be scouted from either side of the river.
 (Paul Thomson photo)


Exiting the pool at the base of Sundance is the pinnacle moment of the run.  A class II builds to a class III rapid as the stream bends left, and drops into Wahclella Gorge via a large waterfall.  It is imperative to get out before turning this corner.  While they are far from generous, there are eddy options on the right before the point of no return.


Photo by "northridge"


This is a good spot for a lunch break as if you are not going to run Wahclella Gorge you have your work cut out for you.

Wahclella Gorge is about 1/4 mile long, starting with a large waterfall into a narrow landing and immediately dropping over a small boxed in ledge.  There are a few more chutes and slots before at least one more waterfall, Tanner Creek then exits the gorge over the impressive Wahclella Falls itself.

It may be possible to portage Wahclella Gorge, but we chose to hike out at this point (I recommend portaging).  From the stream we climbed to the base of a cliff, to portage follow this downstream until past Wachlella, then rope boats down where there is a break in the cliff. We went straight up to the road and it was hard.  Once you hit the road, it's another couple of downhill back to the gate.

If you make the right choice and portage Wachlella, you will have a couple hundred yards of boulder gardens below the falls, then it's mostly class III with some wood to dodge.


Flows:  We had just under 1,000 cfs in the Bull Run nr Multnomah Falls.  That's about minimum for the boulder gardens in the upper part, though the waterfalls are runnable much lower.

Access:  Take exit 40 off I84 and turn South (away from the Columbia).  If you are running or portaging Wahclella Gorge (instead of hiking out) take out options will be obvious at this point.

The start of the access road is marked on the following map by a red circle, but is absent from most maps.  It is right next to a water tower.


Follow the road 4-5 miles until you see the powerlines crossing the creek, put in close to those.  I believe we put in right under them but my memory could be wrong.  The powerlines are shown on the following map.

Put in at the powerlines:  45.5976, -121.9452

On the walk/drive up the access road you will cross a number of micro creeks.  Just after the second one is where you return to the road if you hike out (pretty strenuous, if Wahclella Gorge has a portage route that would be preferred).  The hike out is marked below.




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Original write-up

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Photos by Lucas Reitman unless marked otherwise.


Most people who have spent time hiking in the CRG has been to Wahclella Falls.  The trail ends at the scenic and intimidating waterfall run only by the Honey Badger himself.  That event has become legend.

I am no honey badger, so was more curious about the stream above the waterfall that Boomer ran.  Nick and I tube scouted the creek a few years ago and found some really nice waterfalls followed by a challenging hike out of the gorge.

This year Nick and I met up with the Lucas's from Corvallis to try Eagle Creek.  Paul and Jean came along to take photos and hang out.  I didn't bother to check the gauge as it had been a low water year and Eagle usually stays in late.  The lack of rain in Monmouth led me to believe levels would be fine, but unbeknownst to me (should have at least checked the gauge) rain up in the Portland/Hood River area brought Eagle to a level we thought would leave Skoonichuck too high.  And as Matt would put it "we are lifestyle boaters, not pro boaters" and as such were keen on coming back when the whole run was good to go, not just the iconic Punchbowl and Metlako.  

It was at this point that I remembered about this other creek Nick and I had scouted and had wrote off as I didn't think anyone I knew would be interested in the long hike in, a day of boating, then Oregon's version of the South Branch's infamous hike out.  However the Lucas's are very ambitious and it was surprisingly easy to convince them this was a good idea.

We arrived at the start of the hike and realized that there was going to be a way to drive straight to the put in (if a future explorer is ambitious and lucky they may encounter the same circumstances).  By the time we were half way up the road we were really glad not to be hiking as it took awhile even in the car and light was going to be a concern.

We put on and while there was water, the rocky upper section could have used a bit more.  This all changed when we got to the waterfalls though!  Just when I could tell the Lucas's were starting to doubt my memory of the run, we slid down a small class II bedrock slide and eddied out on the left to scout our first waterfall.  This turned out to be Volition Falls, the most unique drop on the section we ran.

This waterfall goes vertical for ten feet before reconnecting with a flat shelf which flumes up and over a large wave before dropping another 4 feet into a hole.  This transition looked questionable and there was a log that was very in play penetrating the pool, waiting to entrap a swimmer.  We looked and discussed for awhile before Lucas Glick decided that he would take my IK over the drop (in theory the extra padding would soften the transition).  It was his first time in an IK in many years but he made the drop look smooth as silk.  After seeing that I couldn't walk away so using teamwork got the IK back to the top and I dittoed his line.

Lucas doesn't regret his volition.


Below here I recall more boulder gardens with one standout drop that started with a smooth sliding ledge with a big wall on the left below.  The second part of the rapid was steep, ending where the wall outcropped into the stream.This was to be the most distinct rapid of the day (Coppertone).  Below Coppertone were a couple more rapids (the one just below was a bit sketch due to wood, a line all the way to the left was the way).


Not too long below here was Caesura Falls.  This falls is proceeded by a long bedrock slide on a left turn that ended in a pile of wood.  Caesura Falls is a low stress ten foot boof in the middle.  Or a fun/unique looking slot/slide on the right.  We saw Nick and Paul on the shore who informed us the hike out wasn't going to be too bad and the next falls was just around the corner.

Glick goes first.



As Nick and Paul had told us, a short distance below here we were out again scouting Sundance Falls, a beatiful 40 foot waterfall into a nice pool.  I thought I saw a reconnect opportunity right of center so sailed off over there for a clean, but jolting landing.

IK's for days

 The Lucas's took the tuck line on the left and while both their lines looked heavenly, they also reported taking hits.

 Lucas is one of the few people who has written academically about the Oregon tuck, it appears that extra effort paid off.

Exiting this pool is the crux of the run, as there are not really any full eddies between here and Swaawa Falls, a 60+ foot falls that would commit you to a class V+ gorge with waterfalls.  Nick had hiked in with Paul to this point (thanks so much guys, that made a world of difference) and pulled us onto shore here.

The initial pitch of the hike out was tricky, the thing to do was hike straight up to the base of the cliff-band, traverse back upstream until an egress point presented itself.  We chose to rope boats up this cliff-band.  After this it was time to lower our heads and grunt over a thousand vertical feet up the 30+ degree slope.  I would be inclined to repeat this trek were it not for the willows.  Small and sturdy, they were constantly in the way, getting worse before getting better.  Soon enough we were at the road and ready to head out after a memorable day of boating.


Happy exploration.
 






                   
                 -Jacob