Notes from an Oregonian: Whistler Classics

These runs are described better here than I would be able to do.  What I have are some notes, as Oregonians may perceive things differently than a BC local.  I have gone up there a number of times over Labor Day weekend when the water is low, but the trip was still completely worth it.  Written for the weekend warrior, class IV-V boater type without a guide.

I have found that if the Cheakamus Gauge is reading over 2' it is worth making the trip to the area, with 2.5' being ideal (excluding Tatlow).

Camping at the Cal-Cheak campground or past it is the go-to move but can fill up quickly.  There is also camping up around and past the Upper Cheakamus put in.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Callaghan Creek; Classic

Trip Report

 

Similar to the Green Truss from the put in through the Springs (below Double Drop), but if Big Brother was super clean and straight forward.  There is a new gauge with "0" marking the lowest locals will run it, though I consider "0" to still be pretty fun.  I have even enjoyed running it a little into the negatives, and while I wouldn't recommend driving up there for it at that flow, if you are already in the area it might be worth it especially if you have never run the ultra clean 20 footer, the boulder gardens will get rough though.

The first falls goes on the right when levels are low enough that the left line closes out. 
 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Callaghan (adventure run); Upper

Trip Report

If you are looking for something new in the Whistler area, and don't mind hiking a bit, the Upper Callaghan is a good option.  This section is better at lower flows than the classic section. 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Cheakamus; Upper

Trip Report

This is the most stress free run on this list, and perhaps the most fun.  Boaters from Oregon will still feel that there is plenty of water to enjoy the run at 2' on the gauge.  While the put in drop is generally run on the left, at low water the right side is a better option.  From below the falls (easy to put in below it) to the take out is fantastic read and run whitewater.  There is one rapid early on that I got a moment of "whoops, should have scouted" as I entered, but it actually flushes beautifully and there is no need to scout.  A sign on the right bank warns to "not get bit" just above that drop.  Triple Drop, the next rapid downstream of the one under a high foot bridge, is worth scouting on the right your first time down as there is a sticky hole at the bottom.

Right line at the put in falls.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Cheakamus; Balls to the Wall (Lower)

Trip Report

 

This one takes more time than the upper, it requires decision making and has the feel of a relaxed adventure.  This one goes lower than the Upper Cheakamus, and I doubt it ever gets too low by Oregon standards in the summer.  One of the beauties of being here at low water is the waterfall (Balls to the Wall) is stress free and the pockets in the run out are not much in play.  Everything can be scouted on the run.  One note, as soon as you see a wood deck below Balls to the Walls Falls, eddy out on the right for an extended portage along a trail.  You are getting close to the point of returning to the creek when you find yourself near a railroad track.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Soo

Trip Report

Non-nondescript rapids that are fun.  Everything is scoutable and portageable at the low levels we had.  Upstream of the normal put in is the Railroad Canyon, a short class V section that can be scouted and portaged on the left.  It was at a reasonable flow on our latest Labor Day trip in 2019. (Cheak was at 2.3' that weekend).

Railroad Canyon, Brandon Lake

----------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Ashlu; Mine Run

Trip Report

 

If this run was anywhere else it would be done more often, since it is the section upstream of the Box Canyon of the Ashlu, some of its glory is stolen.    Most people put in at the Mine the run garners its name from. The rapid is as hard as it gets for the day (aside from the portage), so its a good barometer for how the rest of the day will be.   It is also un-portageable, so come ready for a class V rapid off the bat.  From there down there is loads of good rapids that can be scouted and portaged at regular/low flows.  The crux of the run is recognizing the portage, the location of which is described adequately in the Liquid Lore Report.  On that report they also describe the semi-tricky way to ascertain flows.  I have done this run at 13 cms (they were releasing all they had into the Box), and at 55-60 cms.  Both were fun, but I would not have enjoyed the high water run if I wasn't following someone who knew the lines at that level.   That time we were coming off of Tatlow Creek, so ran some rapids above the normal put in as well.  I recall two big ledges with big holes, then portaging a mega rapid (The Mine Drop) that Willy Dinsale ran, this rapid is visible upstream at the Mine put in.  He was online through the rapid, yet spent 10-20 seconds in the crux hole that eventually spat him out (still in his boat).  13 cms felt low, but was still plenty enjoyable.

Priscilla Macy run the bottom of the Mine Rapid at 13 cms

 

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Ashlu; Box Canyon

 Trip Report

Classic class V canyon, Dan Patrinellis led us down when I did the run and he showed us a great day on the water.  I recommend scouting as much as possible before putting on by using the trail on river left, the whitewater was not a style I was accustomed to at the time and rolled 4 times that day.  The first section of whitewater you can see from the trail is par for the course for difficulty on the run.  Because I wasn't looking, I am not sure if there are un-scoutable rapids, but the high walls make me think its highly plausible.  If you want a warm up before 50/50, the Mini-Mine section is just upstream and good class IV fun. 



TheBox from Ryan C on Vimeo.



 

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Squamish

Trip Report

The rapids are more fun than I would have expected from boulder bars.  Fast moving water and some large waves.  We did it for the camping, which was fantastic. 

 

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Dipper; Vertigo Gorge

Trip Report

Very committing, but you don't need to be a world class boater to enjoy it.  However, good decision making and competence are required.  Having a guide or researching the location of rapids and the lines before getting there will greatly reduce the stress level, there is sufficient video and literature out there.  Wood can render the section a no-go, so current beta is paramount.  The drops on Dipper were good, but my favorite part was floating out on the Squamish, fantastic canyon there, and the whitewater is low stress at that point.

Emile, on what I would consider the best part of Vertigo Gorge.

Our trip down Vetigo Gorge

Dipper Creek from Difficult E on Vimeo.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Tatlow

Trip Report
 

Scouting isn't usually an option, so have the lines memorized before going (plenty of GoPro out there).  As of 2016 the road into Tatlow washed out many miles short of the take out, people stopped doing the run for a few years.  In 2019 I heard of a few groups making the long hike in, often camping at the Nymph pool.

  -jacob

Callaghan Creek (Upper Upper Upper)

The day started with an easy 1.5 mile walk along a mostly flat snowmobile road.  As we approached the Callaghan Lake Fork the whitewater was audible through the trees.   We checked out this stretch of V+ whitewater, and decided to pass on this section. 

After some time spent considering where we would begin our bushwhack, we settled on entering the woods about 100 yards east of the Callaghan Lake Fork and held this proximity for the remainder of the hike.  The bushwhack was easy going with Emile leading the way, dragging our boats down the slight decline we took time to pear over the gorge walls when it was convenient.  Eventually the stream became easily accessible and we descended to creek level shortly below this point.  

Where we put in.

There were a couple hundred yards of boulder gardens and a log portage before we reached the confluence with an unnamed stream (originating near Powder Mountain) that marked the beginning of Callaghan Creek proper, discoloring the clear stream and creating the tan colored water those familiar with Callaghan Creek are accustomed to.  This is where we had intended to begin paddling and felt good about flows.  From this point there were no mandatory portages.

The first 15 minutes were easy boulder bar floating before the river showed its true character and entered a gorge reminiscent of the ones found on the lower stretch.  A couple of smaller rapids led to the first ledge, a five-ish footer with a twisting lead in.  We set some lax safety at the hole guarding the pool below and took turns paddling this rapid.  

Things picked up below here with a couple of boulder gardens and sliding rapids.  Shore scouting was always possible at the water level we were running the creek at (-0.05 new gauge/2.45 old gauge).

Ben and Emile cruising.

The signature rapid of the trip was a short ways into this gorge where the walls rose a little and the river dropped out of sight after some slides.  There is a scouting eddy a short ways above the entrance to this rapid, adjacent to a notable mid-stream boulder.

This rapid started off with a 6 foot ledge best run far left to avoid a hole and pocket on the right.   Just below is a 20+ foot falls, a slide to vertical on the left and a double drop on the right.  We spent some time scouting before deciding the right side looked better with the amount of water in the creek.  The hazards were the first part of the double drop had a hole/eddy combo that recycled behind the falls, then another hole/pocket combo below the second ledge that would only be a major hazard at higher flows.  We felt confident that we could hit the line and set about running this fun drop one at a time.  It is worth noting that a portage appeared possible through a gully on the left.

Emile drops the double.

Pretty excited about the run so far, we continued downstream.  Finding mostly class IV boulder rapids as the gorge continued on, we were a little stressed that we might get gorged in above an unrunnable/unportageable rapid.  Before long the walls got more vertical and an ominous drop presented itself as the stream entered a gorge.  We went for an extended scout on river right through the Devil’s Club and determined that while the next fifty yards was runnable, it was contained in a vertical walled gorge and the first drop was more dangerous than any of us were comfortable with.  Here, Callaghan Creek divided around a midstream boulder and dropped about 6 feet.  About 10% of the water went right over a runnable ledge.  The rest of the water went left into a siphon that was not conducive to human survival.  Just downstream was a boulder that would be a hazard at higher flows, we did not see anywhere to set meaningful safety.  Ben and I decided that running the drop was the correct course of action for us, but did not question Emile’s decision to make the exposed and semi-laborious portage on the right. 

We did not get any pictures of the siphon from upstream.  Here Emile Elliott looks back upstream at the crux move at the head of the gorge.

Both Ben and I made the easy, but necessary move to the right.  Emile had a couple sketchy moments on the portage.  The three of us felt a weight lift when we had all reached the eddy below this rapid.  Immediately downstream the gorge took a sharp right turn and we ducked a log that would require a portage at higher flows (I think you might be able to get out between the two drops if necessary and portage).  

The gorge walls recede immediately below the log duck, where a boulder rapid that we ran center to left was next.  Then as I recall the remainder of the run was class III-IV read and run with a short and splashy mini gorge thrown in to mix things up.  I took out on the left side of the bridge to do shuttle while Ben and Emile continued through the regular Callaghan run.

----------------------------------------

Access:  Most who would do this stretch would use it as an extension to the regular section, those paddlers can take out in the Cal-Cheak campground just south of the Hwy 99 (Sea to Sky Hwy) bridge over Callaghan Creek.  To only run the upper section, turn off Hwy 99 onto Callaghan Road toward the Olympic Park.  In 4.7 miles (7.6 km) a bridge over the Callaghan is crossed.  This is the take out if you are not continuing through the lower stretch.

* Between the upper take out and lower put in is a ledge, class II/III bouldery rapids and some gravel bar doldrums.*

Put In:  Continue up the Callaghan Road from the upper take out bridge towards Callaghan Lake, 1.4 miles (2.2 km) later (within the Olympic ski area), turn left onto the gravel road towards Callaghan Lake. 1 mile (1.6 km) past the Olympic Park a spur road will branch off to the right (stay on the main gravel road), a very short ways further the road makes a left bend, then a right.  Find a pull-out ASAP to park.  

 click on image to enlarge

 Bushwhack downhill a hundred feet (30 meters) to a snowmobile road, turn right and hike 1.7 miles (2.7 km) to a point where you can hear the Callaghan Lake Fork.  Once you have confirmed where you are, enter the woods 100-200 yards/meters east of the Callaghan Lake Fork via a small rivulet.  Stay parallel to the Callaghan Lake Fork at this proximity for a little more than a half mile (1 km) to a point where it is easiest to drop into the Callaghan Lake Fork and paddle down to the confluence of the Callaghan Lake Fork and Powder Mountain Fork.  This confluence marks the beginning of Callaghan Creek Proper.  Be conscientious of wood above the confluence.

Click image to increase size.

Water Levels:  We had about 2.45 meters on the old Callaghan stick gauge (-0.05 on the new one) and 2.1-2.2 on the Cheakamus gauge.  This was enough water for our first trip with plenty of eddies, being from Oregon this felt like a friendly side of medium flow.  Knowing that up north they like their rivers full, this would probably be considered low to the locals.  A positive, those who paddled both sections of the Callaghan this day felt that the water was better channelized up high.  

Callaghan Gauge the day we ran the upper stretch.
It has been run lower.

                       -jacob

BC Beta

Looking back on my 3 kayaking trips to BC, there is one outstanding part of every trip that I wish I could avoid.  That is driving through Vancouver.

Vancouver is a beautiful town that is reportedly a delightful place to spend time in.  The issue for me is my destination has always been beyond and when nearing the end of a sizable drive, one of the last things I enjoy doing is finding my way through a large city with many stop lights.  Even when conditions are ideal (2:30 in the morning) I find this part of the drive trying on my patience.  5:30 on a Friday afternoon is indescribable.

Fortunately the last time we were up there we received some solid beta from Dan Patrinellis that avoids Vancouver proper altogether.  The first thing to realize is that the sign system appears to make the assumption everyone who travels into BC has the goal of visiting Vancouver, even if they are on their way to Whistler/Squamish or beyond.

The way to circumnavigate this fate is to follow the route indicated on the map below and avoid the Peace Arch border crossing.

Same map zoomed in to show the border crossing.

Driving hwy 15, you will eventually see signs that warm you are about to cross a toll bridge.  While it is indeed a toll bridge, a sign just before you cross will inform you must go online if you wish to pay the small fee.  If you do not, sometimes they will send you a bill in the mail, sometimes nothing comes of it.  For me, it has been 6 trips over the bridge and no fee.

Now that you have arrived at your destination faster than anticipated, maybe you have time for a quick lap on the Box!

Another enjoyable edit by Ryan Cole.  This one of our September 14, 2013 trip to the Ashlu at 21 cms.

TheBox from Ryan C on Vimeo.

* Willy Dinsdale has taken the 543/15 route a number of times.  He said one of the times he received a request in the mail to pay his fee.

* Nate has also received one request in a handful of trips to BC

  -jacob

BC 2012: Day 1 & 2

Day 1 was overall a success with one major mistake. 

 Once we arrived in Canada we attempted to take a small highway that we thought would be a shortcut, turns out it took us through the heart of Vancouver where we encountered over 100 stoplights, and about 4 of every 5 required us to stop.  It was hellish and by the time we made it to our first stop at Lynn Creek in North Vancouver we were pretty stressed from the city.  Lynn was a trickle but a nice hike to break up the drive.

Next stop was the comparatively low Furry Creek.  The unique setting inside a golf course was interesting, but the boats stayed on the roof as we headed towards Whistler.  Finding expensive food, gas, and beer ($55 for a 30 rack), we set camp at Cal-Cheak campground and tried to figure out logistics for day two.

Day 2

   We were very amped to get on the water this day.  After struggling a bit to find the put in for the Cheakamus (GPS wasn't cutting it in Canada and we didn't have a map yet), we finally set the scooter shuttle and arrived at the put in to see flows much lower than any picture I had seen.  However, more than enough water was available to float our boats so in we went!  The left side of the put in drop landed on rocks at this flow, so I scoped out a line down the right which was a fun start to the trip.

Stroke number 12 of many on the trip

From the perspective of a bird flying 4 inches above my head.

From here to the take out was a blast, excellent class III-IV boulder gardens with one scout at triple drop and another at a blind corner.  We took out stoked on life and ready for more!  The shuttle scooter needed some work so we headed to Whistler to take care of that.  With that taken care of, we were ready to step it up a bit!

  Callaghan would be the afternoon ticket, so after some hotdogs at the take out we faced similar challenges finding the put in. Our intuition sent us to the right point and we put on to very low water (certainly below recommended flows).  Nate Pfiefer has a detailed report of this section and his comparison to the Truss is spot on.  This run is what I wish the Truss was, more of the upper section and cleaner waterfalls.  We portaged the very first ledge and soon enough were upon the first waterfall after some fun boulder gardens.  The normal line was too low so we agreed on the right side, Nick's boat decided to go first, followed shortly thereafter by Nick via a leap off the center rock.  After recovering his boat in the pool below, I took my turn and following the example of the IK had a sunny side up line.

Choosing to deal with the waterfall in my boat.

The next couple ledges were fun and then we were at the signature drop of the Callaghan.  Nick had not run anything this tall in a long time so there was a bit of apprehension.  I went first and set up for media of Nick.  Unfortunately his stellar efforts and clean line were not reciprocated on my part and the shots did not come out well, sorry bud.  Fortunately, many more picture opportunities awaited us in the near future.

Nick's timing on this picture correlates nicely with the precision of his line.

Below here we paid the price for putting on with low water.  It was fun piecing all the marginal lines together, but we were tired by the end.  There were a few fun drops near the end, keeping us entertained until the HWY 1 bridge.  From here it was a short, but tortuous paddle (especially in the rock loving IK) down to our campsite.

Unfortunately my scooter destroyed itself on the shuttle road and a moderate jog awaited me, but I was too pleased by the day to let it get me down.  Another trip into Whistler for a map and zip ties for the scooter's fuel tank and the day neared its end.  Camp was mellow, and we enjoyed the rest of our hotdogs before calling it a night, ready for the trip of the trip the following day!

Day 3 coming soon...

   -Jacob