Big Bend Creek

  Photo: Priscilla Macy






BETA

Stream: Ben had found this creek some how or another a few years ago while driving around, then saw it had this mention in the back of Soggy Sneakers.  We had made a couple goes at it over the next couple years, but whether it was snow or logs across the road we had not made it to the put in.  

We were finally able to get on the creek near the end of 2019, and found the Soggy Sneaker description to be perfectly adequate. 

  Photo: Priscilla Macy

It had been a dismal Falls as far as water levels go, so we went for it even knowing it would be very low.  The one class V rapid (or it would be with decent flow) was steep and bouldery, lasting a couple hundred yards.  Each segment of the rapid could be broken down into individual drops at the flow we had.  Most segments we ran, a couple we portaged.

  Photo: Priscilla Macy

Below the confluence with Bulldog Creek, the creek matured a bit and the rapids were a little more quality.  Most of the run was bouldery read and run, with the occasional tease of bedrock. 

  Photo: Priscilla Macy

We had a handful of quick portages, all at water level.  In fact everything could be handled at river level.  

In this instance, I was able to hold up a log while the other two went under.

That's about all you need to know if you want to check out the creek, you might consider paddling down Steamboat Creek a ways to add some more rapids and floating if you head that way. 

 Photo: Priscilla Macy

  
Flows:  Iv'e had two visuals on Big Bend Creek.  The first time the Steamboat Creek gauge was at 3500 cfs, this looked like a medium flow.  We were not able to do the run due to logs blocking the road that day.  When we actually ran the creek on Dec 14, 2019 flows dropped below 1,000 cfs on the Steamboat gauge.  These flows equated to scouting the creek with our kayaks, we were able to paddle the whole way, but it was too low for interesting hydraulics to form.

Access:  Take Highway 138 East from Roseburg, in a little under 40 miles turn left onto Steamboat Creek road.  Follow Steamboat Creek road 11 miles until it crossed over Big Bend Creek.  You can take out here, or at the next bridge downstream on Steamboat Creek, which is what we did.

 After crossing Big Bend take the first immediate right turn, in 2.7 miles is a very old road dropping off to the right that could easily be missed.  We drove half a mile down this road, cutting logs as we went.  Eventually we decided it was faster and easier just to drag our kayaks down the hill.  It only took 5-10 minutes to get close enough to the creek to schwack down into it.  

North Umpqua: Lemolo's

Beta

Stream:  Starting at the outlet to Lemolo reservoir and ending at Lemolo Falls, this is more a novel approach to hiking the Lemolo Falls trail than an actual kayak run. 

Most of the summer the release from Lemolo reservoir is about 80 cfs, which is actually enough water to paddle the stream.  Furthermore it's a favorable level in that it drops the effort factor because the log portaging is easier at this flow and the rapids all still go well enough to be enjoyed by the type of person who would like this run.

  Photo: Priscilla Macy

The put in is at the base of the reservoir, there should be just enough water to float (we brought rock boats).

 Photo: Priscilla Macy

 There are a couple quick portages (easy at low flows) before your first bedrock ledge.  The rest of the run continues this way, a couple quick log portages and then an interesting, ledgey rapid.  These get larger as you move downstream, eventually peaking at this fun falls.  It could even be considered worthwhile just to hike to this 10' falls and do laps on it.

Sometimes it is easier to portage along the trail that runs along river right, we took this option twice in order to pass multiple log issues at once.  It's a bit of a puzzle getting downstream, a fun puzzle with the right attitude.  The run ends at Lemolo Falls, where a nice eddy exists on the right to take out of the river and take in the view.

This rapid is not far above Lemolo Falls, it's probably easiest (but not necessary) to leave boats here and walk the remainder of the trail to Lemolo.

 Photo: Richard O'Neill

 If you were to paddle to Lemolo Falls, be cautious below the above pictured rapid, Lemolo is not something you would want to take an unplanned run over.  There is a nice eddy on the right above the point of no return, fortunately.

 Take some time to appreciate where you are, then begin hiking out.  We found a fair point of egress through the woods about 1/4 mile above Lemolo Falls.  If you are adept at carrying a boat it takes less than 20 minutes, and if you are not adept you probably are not doing this type of run in the first place.  The initial pitch is straight up and can be done in about 5-10 minutes.  The rest of the hike is pretty flat until you reach the road next to the canal where you can leave vehicles.  If you would rather hike on a trail, you can hike back upstream 1.5 miles to the trailhead from Lemolo Falls.

Flows:  You want the North Umpqua below Lemolo Reservoir to have 80+ cfs, which it usually has during the time of year anyone would be desperate enough to check this one out.  If they are releasing a healthy flow I would be concerned about the wood situation (200 cfs would be fine).  

Access:  The turn off to Lemolo Reservoir is between Toketee Falls and Clearwater Lake off Hwy 138 (follow the signs to Lemolo Lake).  Follow this road (2610) about 5 miles to the dam creating Lemolo Reservoir.  You will return here and put in just below the dam.

To drop a vehicle off for shuttle, cross the dam and take the first left.  Follow this paved road next to the canal just over 1/2 mile and cross over the canal on a small bridge.  If you would rather hike out 1.5 miles on the trail leave your vehicle here at the trailhead.

If you would like to hike directly up to your vehicle at the end of the run, follow the dirt track next to the canal about 1.25 miles (you should pass three decommissioned bridges spanning the canal downstream of the trailhead).  Leave your vehicle here and note where you are along the canal in case you do not reach the dirt track right where you left your vehicle on the hike out.

Driving out along the canal at the end of the day.

  Photo: Priscilla Macy

* If you do not have a vehicle with clearance, you can use the paved road on the river-right side of the canal.*

Notes:   There is plenty of nice camping in the area.

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Trip Report
Between Two Lemolo's

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It was the end of the summer (2016), and despite seeing inches of snow at elevation on this trip it had been over 80 degrees in the Willamette Valley last weekend.  Priscilla and I were headed down to Grants Pass so she could get her eyes mapped for Lasik surgery and we decided to do some kayaking on the way down as kayakers often do.

Snow in the Summer, and graffiti with taste.  

I'd had my eye on this stretch of the North Umpqua for a few years now but it's been on the back burner because of regulated flows and known wood obstacles.  We almost ran it last year when Lucas Reitmann suggested that stretch but had checked out another creek instead that required less driving.

This series of photos was where the heft of my research and interest came from.  Because they posted the dates they took the photos I was able to compare that to historic gauge data and thought the run looked possible at the 75 cfs reading those photos were taken at, an acceptable late season adventure when nothing else was flowing.

We checked out the Narrows run of the North Umpqua on our way up, but skipped that section when a local at the take out appeared far too interested in our shuttle vehicle (a motorized bicycle).  After arriving at the dam creating Lemolo Reservoir we took a little time to figure out some of the logistics that couldn't be done from a map and shortly after had our shuttle set.

A quick walk down to the stream and we were floating downriver on what oddly felt like a fine flow (89 cfs).  A couple quick log portages and we passed a staff gauge reading 1.5'. 

Another quick hop out and in portage, and we were at the first horizon line, a fun bedrock ledge typical of the run.

Photo: Priscilla Macy

A couple more easily dealt with logs and we arrived at another gauge that had been damaged and will be decommissioned by the time this trip report is published.

Immediately downstream was another bedrock ledge that would have been good without a log spanning the line.  A bold paddler could execute a rail slide down the log.

The rest of the run was more of the same, interesting and clean bedrock rapids (all class IV in nature) separated by quick log portages and some log dodging.

 Photo: Priscilla Macy

 The signature drop of the run was this waterfall that despite the low flow had two distinct line options.

Photo: Priscilla Macy

The next rapid we snuck via the scrapey right channel.  The landing over there is less than a paddle deep, we used two different techniques to keep our bows from dropping to vertical.

 Photo: Priscilla Macy

My favorite rapid ended up being one that I was going to portage until Priscilla decided she wanted to run it.  She made the narrow pinch look fun and straight forward so I had to follow.

This was the last rapid we ran on this trip and we left our boats on the trail a short way downstream.  On our walk down to check out Lemolo Falls we passed one more rapid I would like to run on a return trip.

The lip of Lemolo Falls

  Photo: Priscilla Macy

After checking out Lemolo Falls we walked back up along the trail to our boats and started the steep climb out.  It took me about 5 minutes to climb up past the first steep part (< 200 vertical feet) and another 10 to return and haul up Priscilla's boat (she was losing her footing and was worried about taking a fall).  Less than 10 minutes of easy walking later we were back at the canal where we had left our shuttle bike. 

What should have been an easy shuttle became obnoxious when our bike got a flat and then my knee was acting up while I jogged the rest of the way but we got it done and headed up to a nice camp at Lemolo Reservoir.

  -jacob

North Umpqua: Narrows

Deadline Falls at ~ 3,000 cfs
Photo: Aaron Lieberman





 

BETA




***This description is a guide for summertime flows.  If the stream is swelled from rain things will be different.***

Stream: Most people will give Deadline Falls a look on the drive up from an obvious roadside pull out.  Here you can see the whole drop and scout the right side in detail.  

From there head up to Baker Wayside and walk a short trail down to the river.  I recommend starting from the top of the park at highway level to avoid an attainment, then a ferry.  

There is a class III right next to the wayside, then Baker Falls is not far downstream.  At higher levels, you'll want to scope it out from the Wayside first if not familiar, there is a pocket hole that while easy to clear on the right side of the channel at summer flows, would suck to end up in if you didn't know where to go beforehand.  We scouted from the right bank easily at 800 cfs.

There is some easy cruising through Baker Alley below here, and a nice lunch spot on river-left.

Keep an eye out for ways to increase the fun factor on the small rapids in this section.

At the end of a long flat stretch in upper Cable, with a saucy surf wave for the bold.

A turbulent eddyline next to the Cable access spur is next and offers squirt and roll practice.

Next is Upper Cable which is class III and pretty open in terms of lines. 

 Eddy out below on the left to scout Deadline in detail.  There are a number of lines, but the one we took was off a ramping boof on the center left.  And while the hole can be a bit intimidating, the move was straight forward.

                                                                         Photo: Kody Dewbre



 
There is a short and easy rapid below and then the river eases up for awhile as you pass Rock Creek.  There is some more easy floating below Rock Creek before the Narrows.  Eddy out either side at low flows or right at high flows to scout.   The river pinches down to the left here and travels through a chaotic chute.  Aside from powerful hydraulics there are no obvious hazards on this one.

                                                                                Photo: Kody Dewbre



 

Around the corner is one last ramp that can be scouted easily on the left.  The river pools up at this point and but 50 yards downstream is the trail leading up to the parking area.  

Downstream of this point is flatwater and class II down to Glide.

All the drops are easily lappable at medium to low flows.  With an easy shuttle, reliable summer flows, and being only 30 minutes off I-5, this run is a solid resource.
  
Flows:  This description is for flows you would find in the summer. North Umpqua @ Copeland Creek.  Pictures from the following trip report are at 1,300 cfs.  The photos above were taken at 870 cfs.

Access:  Take Highway 138 out of Roseburg, just after passing through Glide you will cross the North Umpqua ending up on river right.  3.4 miles past this bridge will be a small turn out on the right.  If you just want to run the whitewater use this as a take out, a trail leads back up from the river.  If you want to keep floating you can, there are other take out options roadside (still steep) or at the bridge you crossed near Glide.

To get to the put in continue upstream along Hwy 138 crossing over Rock Creek, continue another 1/4 mile to a pull out from which you can get a look at Deadline Falls.  Continue upstream from Deadline to any pull out you see fit to use as a put in.

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Original Write-up
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This is a nice section of the North Umpqua that reminded us of the Niagara section of the North Santiam closer to our home in the Willamette Valley. 

Our day started at Toketee Hot Springs.  After a night of camping we went for one more soak before packing up and heading to Whitehorse Falls on the Clearwater River.

Ben didn't want to get his dry gear wet, so ran it without any.

Jesse saw the snow in the parking area and decided gear was worth the hassle.

 Priscilla from the side

 After a couple laps on this falls, the crew headed downstream to check out Little Steamboat Falls which was too low for our taste.  We refueled with ice cream and gatorade at the local store before heading down to check out Deadline Falls.

A quick scout revealed a technical boof line on the right and a deep water line on the left.  The main concern being a large hole in the center. We were undecided about doing the run so drove down to check out the narrows to see if that one called to us.  It looked like a fun, straightforward move so we drove back up to a pullout 1/2 mile above the Rock Creek bridge and geared up.  There was a pool to warm up in, then a straight forward class III with some fun waves before we pulled over on the left to re-scout Deadline.  Jesse and Priscilla took the chute on the far right, while Ben and I decided the main line down the left looked good.

Priscilla approaches the lip of the right side chute.

Jesse gets lift off on his way through the chute

The left line was a little intimidating, but not too difficult.

Ben shoots through

Everyone hit their lines as planned and we continued downstream through a few class II-III rapids before we eddied out left to check out the Narrows again.  Ben got thrown around a bit in his playboat, but the rest of us were able to stay upright in our creek boats.

This rapid reminded me of an easier and shorter version of the rapid with the same name on the North Santiam.

 We turned the corner to see another horizon and scouted this from the left.  It was a fun ramp into a hole.  Ben went for the meat down the middle, the rest of us went left.  We saw some locals below here that allowed us to hike up to the road through the property they were renting, most people walk up a short trail to a wayside immediately downstream of the ramp rapid.

We had 1300 cfs in the North Umpqua@ Copeland Creek.  I imagine this section is nearly always runnable.  When flows get spicy, there is a sneak channel to the left of Deadline that may be worth looking into.


If you felt like the run was too short and want to do another run of similar difficulty (but drastically different character), run the last mile of Rock Creek if flows are adequate starting at Anabel rd.  This creek flows into the North Umpqua below Deadline Falls and flows can be assessed from the bridge during the Deadline shuttle.  We got down Rock Creek with the North Umpqua@ Copeland Creek reading 1300 cfs.

North Umpqua: The Gorge Electric

photo: Priscilla Macy

This run starts out in the pool below Toketee Falls.  Either walk the short trail to the viewing platform and lower boats down the steep hillside, or drop over the falls (a V+ endeavor that I am not going to describe here).  The pool at the base of Toketee is a beautiful start to the run, consider taking a moment to paddle around in it and enjoy where you are, being in a kayak it is easy to paddle to river left and walk around over there for a unique view of the falls.

photo: Priscilla Macy

The rapids begin immediately out of the pool below Toketee, starting out then maintaining a nice class IV grade.  The first horizon line after some read and run is reminiscent of Sidewinder on the White Salmon River.  Look at the landing and the walls closely, or sneak the left side channel.

Ben Mckenzie does it right.

Each notable drop seems to be slightly more challenging than the last until a final rapid that channelizes the river against the right wall feels more like IV+ than IV.  

A fun one in the middle of the run

Though a clean, intuitive line is always present, if it's your first time down it is worth scouting the rapids to find the hazards.

photos: Priscilla Macy

Downstream of the IV+ rapid a short way is a fun bedrock rapid that can produce interesting lines and is easy to carry back up for on the right for additional fun.

 Lucas Rietmann

photo: Priscilla Macy

Brian Butcher

photo: Priscilla Macy

Sam Swanson

photo: Priscilla Macy

Ben Mckenzie

photo: Priscilla Macy

Myself

photo: Lucas Rietmann 

Not far downstream is a bridge, powerhouse, then a short pool.  If the powerhouse is releasing a lot of water, the next obstacle needs to be portaged along an easy path on the left.  If levels are low, it is sometimes possible to run that drop.  Make a good decision here.

Below here you enter the Electric Avenue, and if levels are up the rest of the run is fast and splashy down to the take out bridge at Slide Creek, if it is low the scenery helps pass the time until Fish Creek enters and adds some padding.  It's a special place.  On our second trip down, there was a lot of water in the system and an aqueduct was backed up and overflowing just above the take out.  It made for a captivating scene.

   -   If Toketee (at the put in) is at a good flow, the gorge below is too.  However the gorge could feasibly be run higher.  We had ~375 cfs on our first trip, and 450 on our second trip.  Both were good flows and I'd go back higher (or a little lower).  This section is heavily dam controlled and rarely runs at a good flow, so when its in it is worth heading down there.

 Toketee Gauge

February 11, 2017 was a good flow

Video from our first trip down.

CCC and the Gorge Electric from Jacob Cruser on Vimeo.




There are a number of take out options, the most straight forward is at the NF -4775 bridge near Slide Creek: 43.2961, -122.4782  It is possible to continue to the highway and get one more large rapid, but to avoid dealing I recommend taking out at Slide creek.

Click to enlarge

       -jacob