Cispus: Super Slides

Photos:  Priscilla Macy

BETA

More beta for this run can be found here, and here.

Stream: If you put in on Goat Creek with a similar configuration of trees as we found in 2017, you will find a small stream with numerous portages around logs and some loose boating.  If you put in on the Cispus, you might have a quick portage or two before the slides start.  Of the two approaches, I preferred the second.  It requires about 30 minutes of downhill walking through open forest, the classic Northwest forest allowed for easy dragging.

Once you reach the Cispus, the stream is consolidated and there are a couple class III-IV rapids before the first horizon line which can be easily scouted on the right.  From this point to a point less than 1/4 mile above Walupt Creek Falls the stream is continuous slides.  All fun, all straight forward.

The trick is finding eddies, when there is enough water for the run to be fun, you need to scout eddy to eddy which can take a fair bit of time/effort.  The first lap took us 4-5 hours, the second lap (once we knew the run) took us less than 15 minutes.  

The scouting and eddy situation starts out friendly once on the Cispus and slowly works its way towards tricky as the slides bend around sharper corners.  Nannie Creek enters the Cispus over the below pictured waterfall.  This falls is a good indicator of having reached the finale, the rapid above it is the first corner that requires creativity to scout.

The river bends right below the Nannie Creek confluence (last easy eddy), back to the left and then drops away steeply into the finale.  Once past the horizon line, paddlers are committed to nearly 1/2 mile of continuous slides.  It took about an hour to scout the first time high on river right, which we were able to do thanks to Adam making a dicey eddy and pulling us in out of the slide one at a time.  Once at Nannie Creek Falls, don't leave any eddies until you know how to get into the next one, or are comfortable committing to the next half mile of slides.  The second trip we knew it was clear so didn't scout and it took just a couple minutes to run.  The line for us was to stay center, justified to the inside of any corners.  

                            The steepest part of the final 1/4 mile, from Adam Edward's perspective.


This final 1/2 mile rapid below Nannie Creek ranks up there with one of my favorite rapids of all time, I felt the effort of the run was totally justified by the largest scale class III-IV rapid Iv'e ever run.  Giggles all around.  The whitewater soon peters out and then ends where Walupt Creek falls enters on the left.  There was a surf wave and rocky beach here, making for a nice lunch stop.

After taking in Walupt Creek Falls, it's time to head downstream.  If you are taking the trail out (a little under 1/2 mile downstream of Walupt Creek), keep an eye on river left.  After passing the second notable rockslide, there will be a 30 foot high cliff on river left visible downstream.  Eddy out just below the cliff on river left.  Walk up to the bench 10 feet above river level, you should see another rockslide at this point.  Parallel the river along the bench until you come across a trail, follow this trail up to the vehicles.

If you are using the bridge take out, you will enter the swamp a short distance below the final rockslide.  Downstream progress will become difficult for 1/4 mile as you portage through the swamp.  The river re-consolidates a short distance above the bridge.


  
Flows:  We ran this twice in June 2017, The Cispus was flowing from snowmelt with bumps from significant rain.  June 16 was a fun, friendly flow.  June 18 was a little lower, but still worth it.  Word is 3,000 is medium, give or take 1,000 cfs to get the range of low to high, 500 cfs or more than that in either direction are pushing into the distant edges of runnable.  Eddies are the limiting factor on this run, they were scarce at low flows.  So if you knew the run and that it was clear of wood, you might be able to push the flow levels up a bit if you were willing to forgo scouting.

Access:  The standard route into the area (NF-23 out of Randle) was not passable due to the road being washed out by the Cispus River near Blue Lake.  We took NF-21 paralleling Johnson Creek (which looked like it was at a friendly flow).  For that route, leaving Hwy 12, take NF-21 16 miles and turn left toward Walupt Lake.  Cross the Cispus 1.5 miles later.  This would be the preferred take out, except there is a 1/4 mile long portage through a swamp if you choose that route.  We chose to continue another 1.7 miles to a trailhead, where you can hike about 3/4 of a mile uphill at the end of the day to avoid the portage.

Bridge Take Out:  46.4146, -121.5244
Trail Take Out:  46.4234, -121.5011

To get to the put in return to the bridge across the Cispus and head back towards NF-21.  If you have a high clearance vehicle you may choose to take a short cut shortly before reaching NF-21 on NF-2152.  If you have a Subaru, continue to NF-21 and turn right.  There is a map below that lines it out, but here are the step by step directions as well


 Continue 2.9 miles and turn right again on NF-2150 (the road becomes unmanaged).  Another 1 mile and turn right onto NF-2152, and in another 0.6 miles left onto NF-016 (the road can be rough).  In 0.9 miles there will be a spur road going off to the left (don't take it), in another hundred yards you will notice a small marshy-pond to the left, park here.  Follow the rivulet leaving the marshy-pond down to the Cispus, the distance is under 1 mile.  You will know you are close when you reach a second marshy-pond area.


                                                                    NF-016

If you want to put in on Goat Creek, just continue past the marshy-pond to the end of the road.  Goat Creek is visible from there.  

Hike in to the Cispus:  46.4494, -121.5144

Walk in to Goat Creek: 46.4585, -121.5102

Paddlers:  Adam Edwards, Whitney Butler, Brandon Lake, Priscilla Macy, Jacob Cruser

Upper Upper Washougal

All photos by Jarred Jackman

The Upper Upper Washougal is a run that exists in a state of lore amongst the community.  While it has a write-up in the Bennett guidebook and on OregonKayaking, not many people seem to have done the run.  Those that have say it's good, but that it has an un/un (unscoutable/unportageable) class V rapid.  This is always a bit unnerving on obscure runs, so this along with a road that is often snowed in by winter has kept me and many others from making the trip.

Jarred lives close by and last weekend decided he was ready to see what the run was all about, so he assembled Brandon Lake, John Edwards, Priscilla Macy and myself in Washougal on Sunday Dec 20. We left a vehicle at Dougan Falls in case we decided to continue down through the waterfall section, which looked to be a a friendly flow.  We left a second car at the confluence with Stebbins Creek in case time did not allow for further paddling.

The road to the put in got snowy pretty quickly, bottoming out Jarred's CRV.  Though Priscilla's Exterra did not have this same problem.  We all made it to the put in, but with more snow coming down we were worried about getting the vehicles out at the end of the day.  Priscilla decided she was not comfortable dealing with an un/un and committing gorge in the snow so decided to drive one of the vehicles back to the take out.  I decided I would drive the other one out and the two of us could go run the NWF Washougal while Brandon, Jarred, and John could collect the beta for the Upper Upper Washougal.  With the added comfort of not having to retrieve vehicles at the end of the day.

The shuttle road is blocked 1/4 mile short of river level, next to a compelling, but dangerous falls on Prospector Creek.  The walk along the decommissioned road to the put in went quickly and we watched the team paddle off on what looked to be a perfect water level.

The drive out went well and Priscilla and I had a good day on the NWF, but this report is to get the beta out about the Upper Upper. From what I heard from Jarred and John, it is very much worth doing and the un/un is neither un, nor un.  They report that while the gorge is committing, scouting options are abound.

I'll turn it over here to Jarred here for an on the water report:

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Jarred's Report:  The Bennett Guide mentioned a class II warm up but we put on and were immediately met by a III+ ledge that dropped into a narrow landing.  Many of the drops on the run had some good lines and some not so good lines.  With various rocks still showing and sub-surface boulders it was easy to get bumped offline.  This section seemed reminiscent of Trout Creek near the Wind.  This isn't a surprise when you look at the map and realize they are VERY close in proximity.

Early On

A couple of these bouldery ledge drops led us to the lip of the first falls (10'+) which is very marginally runnable on the right but the safe line is scraping over the middle into a deep pool.  Scout right.  The Washougal is plagued by shallow landings and this section is no different, scout carefully.  

Typical Rapid on the Upper Upper Washougal

We ran a few more boulder garden style drops and found ourselves at the start of the Gorge.  I was expecting an UN UN akin to the gorge on the Carbon.  This was nothing like that.  I don't think levels would affect this scout or portage. 

Beginning of the Un/Un

 We scrambled over large boulders and grovelled through devil's club, all on the left bank.  Water levels would never negate this option.  That said, the portage isn't for the faint of heart and the small spot to gain access to the river could prove difficult to find.  We portaged due to difficult WW, tight must make slots, and a bad piece of wood.  We put back in after the ledge drop after the Gorge.  At portage level you should look for a large fin of rock that seems to block your progress and drop in just upriver of that fin.  There should be a ramp that leads down to the river and will offer good seal launch options.  We used  15' of rope and the ordeal took us 1.5 hours.  If this portage becomes standard, I could see it being similar to Elbow Room on the Ohane (but longer), 30 minutes at most.

Shot from the fin rock area, indicating where a return to river level is feasible.

From river level, on a return trip

Photo: Adam Edwards

Once back on the water the river turned left and out of sight, we boat scouted as aggressively as was prudent and I think we bank-scouted two drops.  One of these ended in a 10' drop in which the right side will mangle you and the left side goes well.  Both look good from upstream, so beware.  It's easy to eddy hop too far on this run and get into trouble.  

The nature of the drops were mostly ledges and boulders with small 2' - 4' drops stacked up.  There was a fair bit of mank but normally clean lines could be found without much trouble.  The river geology in the harder WW reminded us of the Ohane or UUC.  If you know the lines, you're good, if you don't, it could get confusing. 

Portage options were usually available if a drop was not to ones liking.

 Once we were out of the class IV the river valley opened up a bit, we saw some eagles, stumbled upon some nice surf waves (the Washougal always delivers with surf) and the run returned to the description in the Bennet guide.  

John getting in some bonus surf action.

We ran a 10-15' drop river left that was near some houses, then we made our way to Doc's Drop.  

Clean waterfall near the end of the run.

We scouted and ran this left and it was a classic way to end the trip.  It consists of a couple smaller drops and a slide culminating in an upturned lip that launches you (think Boulder Sluice without as much speed.)

So there you have it.  No UN-UNs but plenty of challenges and must make moves in a difficult to access river canyon.  You'll like this run if it's not at your peak skill level.  If it is, well, I hope you don't get injured.  Get an early start as you should treat every descent of this canyon as a first.  Too many options for changing rapids or dangerous wood.

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Flows:  On Dec 15, 2015 Jarred, John and Brandon reported an ideal/medium first time flow with the Washougal reading 1,800 cfs and dropping @ Washougal and 3,500 and dropping @ Hathaway.

Shuttle:  The road peaks out just under 2,000'.  There was more snow on the north side of the shuttle than locations at the same elevation on the south side, the difference was significant enough I felt it was worth mentioning.

From the Stebbins Creek confluence (conventional take out for this run) continue upriver 4.3 miles (staying right at 1.9 miles) to a point where a number of roads split off from the main one (the 4-way intersection mentioned in the Bennett Book).  There are two roads that veer off from the main road to the right at this intersection, you want to take the right turn that goes downhill.   After turning right, you will continue downhill 1.5 miles to a bridge over Prospector Creek.  Immediately after crossing this creek turn left and continue just shy of 2.5 miles to where this road ends.  There is a small pullout adjacent to Prospector Falls less than 50 yards before the road ends that makes a good spot to leave vehicles.  From here just continue down the roadbed on foot until it is easy to get down to the Washougal and put in.

Upper Upper Cispus

Photo: Matt King

BETA

Stream: This is a classic PNW stream that runs during the summer.  It is mostly IV-IV+ with one mandatory class V section (Behemoth), and one optional class V rapid (island).

Starting at a campground, there is a couple hundred yards of warm up before the river bends right and over the first falls, which is off-vertical and about 10-15' tall.  If you intend on scouting, get to the left shore before the bend to scout.



                                                      Ben Mckenzie - Warm up Falls

Photo: Priscilla Macy

The next mile or so is on the hard end of class IV with the occasional mank pile or wood to watch out for.  It often looks trashy from above and below, but the lines are fun and padded if you are in the right spot.  It can be nice to follow someone who knows the situation down the first time, but can be boat scouted too.  There is one rapid near the end of this first gorge section that should be scouted.  A hard right turn leads into it quickly, with eddies on the left above the rapid. The right and middle of the river is sieved out, and at least one person has had a frightening tangle with one of the sieve's.  Ending left over a nice 4-5' boof is how the rapid is run, getting to that boof changes year to year and person to person, scout left.

John Edwards, hitting the bottom left boof.

Photo: Nate Merrill

Below here is a blind rapid that is boofed far left, where less of the water is going.  It drops about 5', a left stroke with your nose at about 10-11 o' clock works well to avoid pitons.

Close downstream is Not Island, the easier line used to be right the whole way, in 2018 it was easiest just to go far left through what used to be a powerful hole.  It's worth a scout on the left your first lap down.

Not far downstream the river opens up for a moment into a couple gravel bars and an island.  It is an option to bail on the right here if someone is not having a good day.

There is even a neat little tube through the rock to check out.

Around the corner things gorge back up and rapids build to Island.  

Mcbenzie after walking back up for lap two.

Island has a moving pool above it and a horizon line, its worth paying attention here so you eddy out in the correct spot (on the left bank of the island at normal flows).  The right side double drop is tougher even than it looks to get a good boof.  The portage is along a shallow shelf river-left.


Approaches to Island Drop from Eric Foster-Moore on Vimeo.


Downstream are more fun rapids, one that stands out is a ramp with short but vertical walls on either side.  The hydraulic at the bottom folds into the right wall, so people flip here often.  What I find works is moving center to left, nose at 10 o' clock and following through with a strong right stroke. 

The log is gone.

 Photo: Nate Merrill

A few more rapids exist before the entrance to Behemoth, noted by a short pool created by a landslide coming in from the right.  There is a lead in rapid, then an eddy on the right to scout the Rapid of No Return, which leads to a moving hallway above Behemoth.  If it's your first time, scouting from the landslide is not a bad idea.

The Rapid of No Return is a little tricky, but can be thoroughly scouted and even portaged on the right.  Below the entrance, catch an eddy on the left before the big horizon line that is Behemoth to scout.

The scout/portage route at the entrance to Behemoth.

 

 Photo: Nate Merrill

And the crux move in the Rapid of No Return.

There is more than one way to run Behemoth, and more than one hazard.  The biggest hazard is being pulled behind the falls on the left.  To avoid this, make sure you nose is not pointed left when you get airborn.  After landing, there is a ledge with a powerful hole on the right.  A strong delayed stroke about 10-15' off the right wall works.  Or if you finessed Behemoth you can run the ledge left where there is not a hole to speak of.

On line through the meat of the hole below Behemoth.

 Photo: Nate Merrill

Downstream are two long boulder gardens.  Enter the first one center, then stay right or right-ish the rest of the way until the boulder gardens ease to class II-III. 

 

Mathias drops in for his first time on this quintessential 1/4 mile of classic PNW boating.

 It is easy floating from below the last boulder garden to the take out bridge, one of the side canyons is worth walking up to see a neat falls.



  
 A couple videos 


Upper Upper Cispus August 2016 from IKNick on Vimeo.



Upper Upper Cispus from Lucas Rietmann on Vimeo.






Flows:  500-700 is best for a first time trip.  It's still in down to 400, and has been run even lower.  It can be run higher for a more class V experience.


Matt has a write up about what you can expect from the Upper Upper Cispus when the water is up.
And here is a video from Todd Wells at even higher flows.

Access:  From I-5, head East on Hwy 12 towards Morton and Randle.  Almost an hour after leaving I-5, turn right in Randle onto Hwy 131.  In 1 mile, turn left onto Cispus river road (Iv'e lazily missed that turn before). 17.6 miles later stay right, you will reach the take out bridge within half a mile.

To get to the put in, return the half mile back the way you came in and turn right onto NF-21.  Continue upstream about 5 miles to the put in bridge.



Notes:  For those with the skill, this is an exceptional run for class V R2's.  

There is free camping at the take out, and a pay site at the put in.  The free ones are smaller and sometimes filled, so it can be worth the money to get a site at the top with toilets and benches and more vacancy.

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Trip Report from Nate Merrill
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For whatever reason, the Upper Upper Cispus has eluded me for the past two years. I've actually been at the put-in sitting in my boat, and never actually descended the river. I've always felt that the run has a very polarizing effect on those who paddle it. Some folks claim that it's right there at the top of their list, while others associate the run with low water mank. And then there are the select few who have found themselves at the lip of behemoth at higher flows, who won't even make a return trip to the area. It seems that almost everyone has a strong opinion about the UUC in one light or another.

A few weeks ago, I finally got the opportunity to create my own opinion about the most polarizing run around. I shot the following photos over a two week span in mid-late august. In subsequent weekends, we had flows around 680 cfs and 550 cfs. I'd definitely recommend the higher of the two levels. In addition to cutting down on some of the mank in the upper boulder gardens, the higher flow also washed out the troublesome hole in the gorge above Behemoth. making that section far less stressful.

I'll start with the photos from the second weekend that I spent up on the upper upper.

Cruise Control scouting the 'Warm Up' Falls - This drop is a mere 150 yards from the put-in bridge. Be careful when approaching the lip, it would be easy to get swept down the gut if you get lost on the lead-in.

Looking down into the unknown

The warm up above the warm up.

Melting Pot

John finishes off one of the countless boulder gardens in the first gorge. This one required a strong move to the left and allowed for a really sweet fading boof off a big rock in the center of the river. The right side led into a nasty boulder sieve. 

Dan Rubado - The right side of Island is a tricky line. Boof early!

The bottom hole at Island - Brandon's got safety

Jacob - Island Paradise

JD - The top of Island tends to roll people onto their left edge. Be prepared and drive hard onto the boil coming of the right wall at the lip.

Scouting the gorge above Behemoth - This is about the point where everyone starts to get really concentrated and quite. The stress factor amplifies a bit as everyone begins to contemplate the massive horizon line at the bottom of the gorge.

Send out a probe

That's me, clawing my way out of the big hole directly above Behemoth. - It's best to hit this hole on the left with lots of speed!

JD in the Gorge

View from the top

View from below

After firing off Behemoth, I snapped this shot of the lower gorge. This section is one of my favorites in the entire PNW. Go right, then right again, followed by a move on the right before heading to the right... You get the idea.

The bark is worse than the bite. Although this hole looks terrifying, as long as you're in control and paddling hard, you'll make it through just fine. JD demonstrates.

Behemoth is a fun drop, but it is consequential! There is a nasty pocket on river left that several friends of mine have wound up in. Both folks required vertical extractions up the wall.

The following photos were taken on the first weekend spent on the UUC when flows were slightly higher. I apologize for the low photo quality. I was having a bad camera day.

Alex Kilyk on a cold summer day. Temps were in the 60's and water coming down was silty run off.

Dan and Chris Menges scouting Island

Alex fires off the left line at Island

This pinch drop should be approached with caution. As you can see, there is a log in the run out that is pretty nasty on river right.

Shortly before the river drops off the face. Issac, Dan, and Chris.

Contemplating life in the eddy above the big one.

First in flight

Issac gets his river karma back in balance.

And I'll leave you with this beauty! Issac Priestly likes his beer with a little extra sediment.